My seven month old min pin was recently just introduced to my two and a half month old shih tzu. They're both male.
My min pin acts very aggressively towards the shih tzu, he takes him by the neck and drags him, he bites him, he pounces at him (all of which could be play-fighting, I'm not sure) but it all looks very aggressive. The shih tzu never squeals or anything, if anything- when he gets extremely pissed off.. he chases after the min pin and barks at him.
I'm not sure if I should stop this behavior from my min pin. He looks as though he's overdoing it and it looks as though it could hurt the shih tzu.
I think they're both fighting for dominance. The little shih tzu often times attempts to hop on the min pins back and "hump" him.
...
What do I do?
As long as they are not physically hurting one another or drawing blood I would say just watch them and let them work it out. If you try to interfere it will just make it worse. So often dogs that start out like this end up after a short while being best friends.
dont return the dog, just limit that kind of play. you have to train in order to get good dispositions, spend time training
nothing to worry about. It's just dog life. he wont get hurt.. Whatever you do DONT RETURN THE DOGS. ... NOT EVEN ONE OF THEM I WORK AT AN ANIMAL SHELTER AND ITS SO SAD WHEN ANIMALS GET RETURNED.
you're right to think that they are fighting over who wil be the dominant dog and over time this will stop.
this is normall
do nothing
if u give them the same amount of atention this should stop
Friday, March 27, 2009
HELP my dog farted and?
it launched her across the room and now shes drinking alot of water. Is she okay?
Uhhmmm... are you sure she farted it sounds like a rocket was shoved up her ***.
she probbly drank something really bubley i think shes perfectly fine lol that must've been fun to watch
that is called intestinal malfunction
omg I cannot stop laughing!!!!! HELP!!!
Uhhmmm... are you sure she farted it sounds like a rocket was shoved up her ***.
she probbly drank something really bubley i think shes perfectly fine lol that must've been fun to watch
that is called intestinal malfunction
omg I cannot stop laughing!!!!! HELP!!!
If i wan2 take rocks from my garden and put them in my fishtank how must i prepare them?
boil them in hot water. i wouldnt recommend using the bleach though. just a small amount missed when you rinse them off can cause serious damage to your lil fishies!
Boil them in water for several minutes in order for the bacteria to get killed off. After that, cool them off in tank water for a few minutes before putting them into your tank.
First do a tribual ritual thanking the earth god Terbuis. Then sacrifice your fish to please the god and then you can put in the rocks without harming your pets.
Rinse them and soak them in plain water, changing it a few times. You want to make sure there are no fertilisers or pesticides on them before you put them in an aquarium. Do NOT use any cleaning agents.
Wash them, and then let them sit and become room temperature before putting them in the water.
i would recomend you boil em
but...i've never personally went that far, wash em and it should be fine
Wash them thoroughly.
?
I'd boil them...
I'd clean them, and boil them
wash em
just wash them
Boil them in water for several minutes in order for the bacteria to get killed off. After that, cool them off in tank water for a few minutes before putting them into your tank.
First do a tribual ritual thanking the earth god Terbuis. Then sacrifice your fish to please the god and then you can put in the rocks without harming your pets.
Rinse them and soak them in plain water, changing it a few times. You want to make sure there are no fertilisers or pesticides on them before you put them in an aquarium. Do NOT use any cleaning agents.
Wash them, and then let them sit and become room temperature before putting them in the water.
i would recomend you boil em
but...i've never personally went that far, wash em and it should be fine
Wash them thoroughly.
?
I'd boil them...
I'd clean them, and boil them
wash em
just wash them
Do dogs get boogers....?
my random question 4 the day(:
i see my dog blowing out her nose sometimes so i wonder if they get boogers
Yep, I see them in my dog's nose sometimes. I think they don't occur as often in dogs because of how wet their noses are... but, yeah. Lol, funny question. -Lola P.
dogs do get boogers, because they sneeze quite a bit, due to facial expressions, especially when they are pleased to meet you, and so they get a kind of mucus in the nostril, and this turns to boogers.
i've noticed sometimes my dogs nose run but they haven't ever had a booger par-say.
Oh! i have always wondered that and I have found my answer! Thank you for asking!
I would imagine so.
Yep. And snot, too.
Quit wasting your points. Why not read and learn
yupp
i see my dog blowing out her nose sometimes so i wonder if they get boogers
Yep, I see them in my dog's nose sometimes. I think they don't occur as often in dogs because of how wet their noses are... but, yeah. Lol, funny question. -Lola P.
dogs do get boogers, because they sneeze quite a bit, due to facial expressions, especially when they are pleased to meet you, and so they get a kind of mucus in the nostril, and this turns to boogers.
i've noticed sometimes my dogs nose run but they haven't ever had a booger par-say.
Oh! i have always wondered that and I have found my answer! Thank you for asking!
I would imagine so.
Yep. And snot, too.
Quit wasting your points. Why not read and learn
yupp
Which dog is more athletic, a pit bull or a german shepherd?
Look, my pit bulls were trained with german shepherds. Pit bulls did better. They have more indurance and are stubborn, they will keep going. The pit bull is one of those animals that you would want to take on a long walk/run/jog/bike ride. The pit bulls are great in German Shutzon training. German Shepherds are originally for it, and my dogs passed up the trainer's shepherds. They are both very athletic, and basically the same athletic wise.
In my experience, it would be shepherds. Also the classic training is called Schutzhund, not Shutzon. An example of the athleticism that is required is the dog must run for 20 min while tracking a scent along side of its lead, and if they stop they are penalized. Also they are built for speed and for strength, their bodies are most like a wolf, making them naturally athletic. They are also categorized as working dogs and were developed to herd. Although pitts are strong dogs, their endurance and athleticism is not as natural as the GSD.
german shepherds. they were bred to be athletic. they do everything: police work, seeing-eye work, herding, and even hunting. pit bulls were really just bred for protection and fighting- you can tell by the pit bulls broad chest that in the past century they have only been bred to stand their ground against an attacker and hold an opposing dog down with their weight and strong jaws. but those are not athletic traits.
GS were breed for herding, which is why they have long lean bodies and legs. With that being said, a GS is definately going to be more athletic than a Pit. Depending on the breed of Pits, most of them are shorter and stockier built, with a broad blocked head and shoulders that narrow down to a slender backside.
It depends on what you mean by athletic. GSD's are more agile and in general have a longer endurance. Pit bulls are very muscular and can pull really heavy loads. It's kind of like comparing a boxer to a runner, both are athletic, just in a different sense.
Pit Bulls are police dogs TOO, by the way.
Both of them are probably equally as athletic-- they are both are in the working class (working to do jobs for humans-- herding, farmwork, etc.).
"Depending on the breed of Pit..." LOLOL.
Personally I think GS are more athletic because they are bred to be work dogs that work for the police etc. as pit bulls were bred to fight and fighting does not necessarily mean that they are athletic.
pit bulls are way more athletic they got power,speed, agility a german shepherd really only has power. pitbulls do alot of weight pulling i dont know about GS tho
Im going to go with the American Pit Bull Terrier(not the American Bully or whatever the little fat one is)
definantly a german shephard.
they are used to help police.
pit bulls arent very athletic at all.
:D
german shepard they are usually police dogs so they have to be fit and athletic
A pit bull is more active than a german shepard.
German Shepherds are by far!
German Shepherds!
German Shepherd! :]
german shepard
Both because they both tend to have a lot of energy in them
and pitbals are more faster then german shepards
In my experience, it would be shepherds. Also the classic training is called Schutzhund, not Shutzon. An example of the athleticism that is required is the dog must run for 20 min while tracking a scent along side of its lead, and if they stop they are penalized. Also they are built for speed and for strength, their bodies are most like a wolf, making them naturally athletic. They are also categorized as working dogs and were developed to herd. Although pitts are strong dogs, their endurance and athleticism is not as natural as the GSD.
german shepherds. they were bred to be athletic. they do everything: police work, seeing-eye work, herding, and even hunting. pit bulls were really just bred for protection and fighting- you can tell by the pit bulls broad chest that in the past century they have only been bred to stand their ground against an attacker and hold an opposing dog down with their weight and strong jaws. but those are not athletic traits.
GS were breed for herding, which is why they have long lean bodies and legs. With that being said, a GS is definately going to be more athletic than a Pit. Depending on the breed of Pits, most of them are shorter and stockier built, with a broad blocked head and shoulders that narrow down to a slender backside.
It depends on what you mean by athletic. GSD's are more agile and in general have a longer endurance. Pit bulls are very muscular and can pull really heavy loads. It's kind of like comparing a boxer to a runner, both are athletic, just in a different sense.
Pit Bulls are police dogs TOO, by the way.
Both of them are probably equally as athletic-- they are both are in the working class (working to do jobs for humans-- herding, farmwork, etc.).
"Depending on the breed of Pit..." LOLOL.
Personally I think GS are more athletic because they are bred to be work dogs that work for the police etc. as pit bulls were bred to fight and fighting does not necessarily mean that they are athletic.
pit bulls are way more athletic they got power,speed, agility a german shepherd really only has power. pitbulls do alot of weight pulling i dont know about GS tho
Im going to go with the American Pit Bull Terrier(not the American Bully or whatever the little fat one is)
definantly a german shephard.
they are used to help police.
pit bulls arent very athletic at all.
:D
german shepard they are usually police dogs so they have to be fit and athletic
A pit bull is more active than a german shepard.
German Shepherds are by far!
German Shepherds!
German Shepherd! :]
german shepard
Both because they both tend to have a lot of energy in them
and pitbals are more faster then german shepards
Foam and pebbles in a green plastic filter thing for my fish tank..?
What is it? I can't seem to figure out what it's for or how I use it. It's got a spongy foam thing at the bottom and little rocks at the top. It's got green plastic around it with slits in it so the water can get it. But I don't know what it is. If anyone knows, please help! :)
rj it's the filter connect the plastic pipe to it and watch the magic bubble appear (you got it in you r question filter)
It sounds like it is your biological filter, the place where the good bacteria can grow. The good bacteria will help filter out harmful toxins in your tank, and the sponge/rocks provide a lot of surface area for the bacteria to grow. The sponge part may be mechanical filtration (meaning it removes particles from the water) and the rocks are where the bacteria grow. That's my best guess from the description. Hope I helped.
There may be a place at the top where you can attach and air tube to it and at the other end of the tube an air pump. This will create water movement through the filter.
rj it's the filter connect the plastic pipe to it and watch the magic bubble appear (you got it in you r question filter)
It sounds like it is your biological filter, the place where the good bacteria can grow. The good bacteria will help filter out harmful toxins in your tank, and the sponge/rocks provide a lot of surface area for the bacteria to grow. The sponge part may be mechanical filtration (meaning it removes particles from the water) and the rocks are where the bacteria grow. That's my best guess from the description. Hope I helped.
There may be a place at the top where you can attach and air tube to it and at the other end of the tube an air pump. This will create water movement through the filter.
How can you tell if your hamster is preganant?
Ok i just got a hamster and she might be pregnant, her belly is kinda plump and some of her nipples are showing, she also had already been a mom at petco so yeah... she is plump and her tummy is prett solid, how can you tell if she is pregnant, and she is about 2 to 3 months and a teddy bear hammy!!
She definetely could be pregnant at that age, and it sure sounds like she is. Congradulations!
Now, there are a lot of things you need to do for her.
Move her cage to the quietest place in the house.
Give her nesting materials (shoe box or something like it, extra litter, some toilet paper, etc.).
Give her fruits and veggies for nutrition along with her seed food.
And there are a lot of things you need to know about this.
You cannot touch her nest, especially when the babies arrive (I mean it!! DONT touch it.)
Don't touch the babies until their eyes are open, they have fur, and they start roaming around the cage.
Don't make any loud noises around her.
I know it'll be hard because you just got her, but don't pick her up too much, and not at all once she has the babies, for at least a week or two. (She'll be more agressive anyway, and will probably bite).
Research when you need to separate males and females (so they don't mate).
Find out where you can take the babies when they are old enough to give away.
So it sounds like you're in for a real treat. But you really need to research more about hamster babies online or using books. I only mentioned the basics. Oh, and why did I give you that long list of things not to do...because hamster mothers are very sensitive and will eat their young if you do those things...I know sounds gross, but its in a hamster's nature.
Good luck and hae fun with those cute little pups!!
p.s. a hamsters full pregnancy period is about 4 weeks, but it sounds like you're already pretty far in, so be expecting them!
Signs that a pregnant is prego is...
Getting furious and protective lately.
Staying on a hidden,secure place
Constantly making nests
Not exercising lately and only sleeping
Feeling a bit fat and something round in her stomach.
Your hamster seems to be showing signs that is it pregnant. Or maybe it might just be fat lol.
But if she does have the babies,then you shouldn't be bothering or touching her at any time. She needs time to be with her babies. Give her milky foods to make her milk healthy. Feed her good and serve fresh water each day.
By the way
CONGRADULATION if she has the babies!!!
She definetely could be pregnant at that age, and it sure sounds like she is. Congradulations!
Now, there are a lot of things you need to do for her.
Move her cage to the quietest place in the house.
Give her nesting materials (shoe box or something like it, extra litter, some toilet paper, etc.).
Give her fruits and veggies for nutrition along with her seed food.
And there are a lot of things you need to know about this.
You cannot touch her nest, especially when the babies arrive (I mean it!! DONT touch it.)
Don't touch the babies until their eyes are open, they have fur, and they start roaming around the cage.
Don't make any loud noises around her.
I know it'll be hard because you just got her, but don't pick her up too much, and not at all once she has the babies, for at least a week or two. (She'll be more agressive anyway, and will probably bite).
Research when you need to separate males and females (so they don't mate).
Find out where you can take the babies when they are old enough to give away.
So it sounds like you're in for a real treat. But you really need to research more about hamster babies online or using books. I only mentioned the basics. Oh, and why did I give you that long list of things not to do...because hamster mothers are very sensitive and will eat their young if you do those things...I know sounds gross, but its in a hamster's nature.
Good luck and hae fun with those cute little pups!!
p.s. a hamsters full pregnancy period is about 4 weeks, but it sounds like you're already pretty far in, so be expecting them!
Signs that a pregnant is prego is...
Getting furious and protective lately.
Staying on a hidden,secure place
Constantly making nests
Not exercising lately and only sleeping
Feeling a bit fat and something round in her stomach.
Your hamster seems to be showing signs that is it pregnant. Or maybe it might just be fat lol.
But if she does have the babies,then you shouldn't be bothering or touching her at any time. She needs time to be with her babies. Give her milky foods to make her milk healthy. Feed her good and serve fresh water each day.
By the way
CONGRADULATION if she has the babies!!!
New female guinea pig Help!?
I just brought a 6 week old teddy bear guinea pig and will be bringing her home in a week... i alredy have a 6month old abbisyan guinea pig and i want tro know how long i should wait to intergrate them and also what do i need t do to care for a baby guinea pig?? she also need a name lol im super excited cuz ima guine pig lover so i wana give her the best home possible Help!
Generally wait around a week or 2 before you introduce them.. just to make sure the new one has nothing bad it could give to the older one.
If you already have a guinea pig you should know how to care for them... babies are the same as adults really. 1 cup of veg per pig a day... unlimited hay.. pellets and water.
Make sure they have a lot of room or they'll fight... clean the whole cage out well and move things around so the older one isn't territorial, consider a C&C cage if you don't have one already they're great :)
I like the name Ruby and Bella for a girl.
Edit: and too the person above, 13 years olds and younger can own any animal they want, aslong as they love it and care for it it isn't your choice, nothing suggests this person is younger than 13 and they do NOT need to be kept appart for months at all.
All you have to do is treat her like your six month old one because as soon as a guinea pig is ready to leave its mother, it is ok to take care of it as of a fully grown adult guinea pig. I hope this information helped. I used to have 3 guinea pigs and I named the mother Pumpkin and the two babies it had Chocolate and Vanilla.
Okay so, you have to separate them for about a few months, maybe 3-5, then remove it and see how they react, if all is good, let them be together for a long time. I really want two guinea pigs, your very luck, but i guess i am too, because i researched them for a very long time, and am convincing my mother! Im so happy for you! When i get my 2 piggies (both girls) i want to name one Josie, maybe you should too! Its a nice name!! P>S> Please spell better in your posts, if you are under 13 years of age, you should not be owning guinea pigs!
Generally wait around a week or 2 before you introduce them.. just to make sure the new one has nothing bad it could give to the older one.
If you already have a guinea pig you should know how to care for them... babies are the same as adults really. 1 cup of veg per pig a day... unlimited hay.. pellets and water.
Make sure they have a lot of room or they'll fight... clean the whole cage out well and move things around so the older one isn't territorial, consider a C&C cage if you don't have one already they're great :)
I like the name Ruby and Bella for a girl.
Edit: and too the person above, 13 years olds and younger can own any animal they want, aslong as they love it and care for it it isn't your choice, nothing suggests this person is younger than 13 and they do NOT need to be kept appart for months at all.
All you have to do is treat her like your six month old one because as soon as a guinea pig is ready to leave its mother, it is ok to take care of it as of a fully grown adult guinea pig. I hope this information helped. I used to have 3 guinea pigs and I named the mother Pumpkin and the two babies it had Chocolate and Vanilla.
Okay so, you have to separate them for about a few months, maybe 3-5, then remove it and see how they react, if all is good, let them be together for a long time. I really want two guinea pigs, your very luck, but i guess i am too, because i researched them for a very long time, and am convincing my mother! Im so happy for you! When i get my 2 piggies (both girls) i want to name one Josie, maybe you should too! Its a nice name!! P>S> Please spell better in your posts, if you are under 13 years of age, you should not be owning guinea pigs!
How do I get my shy puppy to go on walks?
I just got a beautiful 3 month year old husky german shepherd mix. She is very sweet, she isn't aggressive but is EXTREMELY shy. They warned us when we got her. She was a stray her whole life. She will let you hold her in your lap but if you take her on a walk she just sits down. Ocassionally she would pull towards the street but we litterally couldn't get anywhere.
I would try to find something she really likes and get her to go to that. You could use food (hot dogs are good), dog treats, or even a toy. Once she realizes that everything is going to be ok (may take a week or two) she should be able to go for walks without having to use a "stimulant".
For a while your walks may only consist of her going 500 ft down the sidewalk, but she will learn
You could also take her to obedience classes, they may help her get socialized better.
You can try walking her in your yard or another quiet area, giving her a tiny treat and some praise for each few steps that she takes. Hold the treat out ahead of her and encourage her to walk to get it.
Slowly work up to areas with more noise and distractions as she gains confidence.
Hard to say what is causing her shyness and fear, though (aside from her previous lack of socialization) ... might be a good idea to consult with a dog trainer or behavioral specialist if you aren't making any progress, because if the underlying problem is fear, anxiety, and/or lack of confidence, the walking issue is just a symptom and the cause of it will need to be addressed.
I would try to find something she really likes and get her to go to that. You could use food (hot dogs are good), dog treats, or even a toy. Once she realizes that everything is going to be ok (may take a week or two) she should be able to go for walks without having to use a "stimulant".
For a while your walks may only consist of her going 500 ft down the sidewalk, but she will learn
You could also take her to obedience classes, they may help her get socialized better.
You can try walking her in your yard or another quiet area, giving her a tiny treat and some praise for each few steps that she takes. Hold the treat out ahead of her and encourage her to walk to get it.
Slowly work up to areas with more noise and distractions as she gains confidence.
Hard to say what is causing her shyness and fear, though (aside from her previous lack of socialization) ... might be a good idea to consult with a dog trainer or behavioral specialist if you aren't making any progress, because if the underlying problem is fear, anxiety, and/or lack of confidence, the walking issue is just a symptom and the cause of it will need to be addressed.
Have adopted a 5 1/2 mo. old min pin-tail not docked-do I need to have this done?
Anyone have an older min pin that hasn't had this done?
no, you don't and i wouldn't .... breeders usually do this soon after they are born and if you have it done now it will be really painful for him! don't do it! i have seen tons of rotties with tails, they look a little diff... but they are still cute!
At 5 1/2 months old it is an amputation that requires general anesthesia and a much longer recovery time than a dock. A dock can only be done until 5 days old and that is generally only on puppies to weak to undergo the procedure at a more appropriate 2-3 days old. There is no need to have the tail amputated nor would any responsible vet do a cosmetic amputation. The only reason to have the dogs tail amputated at this point would be a non-healing tail injury or a broken tail.
It's too late to dock. If you got it done now, it would be considered an amputation, would need to be done under anesthesia, and isn't the smartest thing to do. Next time, get your dog from a responsible breeder that docks at the right time - around 3 days of age.
Actually I think anyone who has a dog's ears clipped or tail docked is seriously disturbed. That is done only for the human's ego, because they like the way it makes the dog look. Horrible to put a dog through pain just for selfishness. The dog does not know or care how it looks.
It can only be done shortly after birth. As for it needing to be done, I've had 5 dogs. Two came with their tails already docked, and the other three were intact. We have never had a problem with tails or dewclaws. I think docking and removing dewclaws is total BS.
No need to..it's just for looks so that it will look more like its breed. If he hasn't had this done, and is already 5 1/2 months old, it will hurt way to much to have it done now, so don't worry about it
You don't need to have it done unless you are planning on showing the dog. If it's just for a pet then I wouldn't worry about spending the money, the dog will be fine.
No you do not and hopefully you won't. Dogs use their tails for balance and communication. It is a cosmetic surgery and unless their is a medical reason, whip tail comes to mind, it is not needed.
Docking tails is typically for looks only - and is done when the puppies are only a few days old.
At this age, do not even consider it. It's not necessary.
There is no such medical reason to have this done. Please do not put your dog through this just for appearance. It is medically unnecessary and especially at this age.
(though personally I think its wrong at any age)
NO! The tails should be docked at 2-4 days old. With a 5 1/2 mo old pup, it is a more serious operation and should not be done. No reason to do it anyway.
Getting the tail docked would be a personal choice. The only reason why I could see you needing to get it done is if you plan on showing your dog.
no you don't. It's purely asthetic.
If you do it now, it'll be extremely painful for the dog.
There's no need to have it done.
And at this age it's amputation, much more serious than docking at 3 days.
NO AND MOST VETS WILL NOT DO THIS SURGERY AT 5 1/2 MONTHS IT HAS TO BE DONE WITHIN SEVERAL HOURS AFTER BIRTH...
no, you don't and i wouldn't .... breeders usually do this soon after they are born and if you have it done now it will be really painful for him! don't do it! i have seen tons of rotties with tails, they look a little diff... but they are still cute!
At 5 1/2 months old it is an amputation that requires general anesthesia and a much longer recovery time than a dock. A dock can only be done until 5 days old and that is generally only on puppies to weak to undergo the procedure at a more appropriate 2-3 days old. There is no need to have the tail amputated nor would any responsible vet do a cosmetic amputation. The only reason to have the dogs tail amputated at this point would be a non-healing tail injury or a broken tail.
It's too late to dock. If you got it done now, it would be considered an amputation, would need to be done under anesthesia, and isn't the smartest thing to do. Next time, get your dog from a responsible breeder that docks at the right time - around 3 days of age.
Actually I think anyone who has a dog's ears clipped or tail docked is seriously disturbed. That is done only for the human's ego, because they like the way it makes the dog look. Horrible to put a dog through pain just for selfishness. The dog does not know or care how it looks.
It can only be done shortly after birth. As for it needing to be done, I've had 5 dogs. Two came with their tails already docked, and the other three were intact. We have never had a problem with tails or dewclaws. I think docking and removing dewclaws is total BS.
No need to..it's just for looks so that it will look more like its breed. If he hasn't had this done, and is already 5 1/2 months old, it will hurt way to much to have it done now, so don't worry about it
You don't need to have it done unless you are planning on showing the dog. If it's just for a pet then I wouldn't worry about spending the money, the dog will be fine.
No you do not and hopefully you won't. Dogs use their tails for balance and communication. It is a cosmetic surgery and unless their is a medical reason, whip tail comes to mind, it is not needed.
Docking tails is typically for looks only - and is done when the puppies are only a few days old.
At this age, do not even consider it. It's not necessary.
There is no such medical reason to have this done. Please do not put your dog through this just for appearance. It is medically unnecessary and especially at this age.
(though personally I think its wrong at any age)
NO! The tails should be docked at 2-4 days old. With a 5 1/2 mo old pup, it is a more serious operation and should not be done. No reason to do it anyway.
Getting the tail docked would be a personal choice. The only reason why I could see you needing to get it done is if you plan on showing your dog.
no you don't. It's purely asthetic.
If you do it now, it'll be extremely painful for the dog.
There's no need to have it done.
And at this age it's amputation, much more serious than docking at 3 days.
NO AND MOST VETS WILL NOT DO THIS SURGERY AT 5 1/2 MONTHS IT HAS TO BE DONE WITHIN SEVERAL HOURS AFTER BIRTH...
Pet Grass from Petco question?
Does anyone get this and well, I did and I watered it- I just did not put it in the fridge until last night...and it looks so yellowish and almost dead- I did not over water it...or under water it....it is now in the fridge- any way to revive it? tips to make the next one last??? My cat really like it.
It's wheat grass. You can also get it at most grocery stores for 2 bucks. It grows quickly, but only lasts about 2 weeks. Be sure it gets sun and stays moist. You can sometimes find the seed to replant it, which is the more economical way to grow it. You did nothing wrong, it just doesn't last long. I wouldn't put it in the fridge, I keep mine in the bathroom, actually, where it gets a bit of sun and I can remember to water it.
It's wheat grass. You can also get it at most grocery stores for 2 bucks. It grows quickly, but only lasts about 2 weeks. Be sure it gets sun and stays moist. You can sometimes find the seed to replant it, which is the more economical way to grow it. You did nothing wrong, it just doesn't last long. I wouldn't put it in the fridge, I keep mine in the bathroom, actually, where it gets a bit of sun and I can remember to water it.
Friday, March 13, 2009
What to look for in a coach?
What are some things to look for when searching for a coach?
When I took lessons, it was just the coachs at the barn. And when I got my own horse(I kept her at a different barn). The barn owners would coach me. Now I have moved her since the barn closed down and there is no coachs where I board at. I found some really good coachs in the area and I have heard nothing but good about them. But what are some things to look for? Like should I see what they do as punishment for a horse and stuff? Or even, what do you look for in a coach? I am really wanting to improve as a rider and my horse has some problems(training wise) that I would like to have a coach help me with as I will know I am going the right way.
The number one thing I look for in a coach is commitment. Here are things to look for to see how committed the coach is:
1) On time. You trainer should be there at least 15 minutes before the lesson.
2) Enthusiasm. The only way you are going to get the most out of your trainer is if he/she is actually interested in teaching you. They should take the time to explain things and welcome questions.
3) Cell phone off. There is nothing more frustrating than to have a trainer who spends half the lesson talking on the phone. By this you can tell very quickly what this trainer is going to be like; if they have this trait, they usually have most all the other traits. I recently switched trainers and I have been learning so much from my new trainer. The only time she answered her phone was when it was her dad calling the day after surgery. And she was even apologetic about that!
4) Preparation. Your trainer should have a plan, at least in their head if not in writing, of what you're going to do during the lesson. If they are lazy enough to wing every lesson, they are probably also too lazy to actually set up exercises and set jumps, ect. therefore you will find your lessons very repetitive.
Another thing to look for is of course knowledge. Your lessons should be full of factual information, constructive criticism, and multiple techniques. If your trainer is only saying things every 5 minutes or is only saying things you have heard of before, they don't know enough to teach your level. A knowledgable instructor will also be much safer if they know what they are doing.
Lastly, you want a positive instructor. An instructor needs to have a balance of patience and drive. If your trainer cuts you too much slack and doesn't push, you'll never raise the bar. But, at the same time a trainer that is too pushy with expectations that are too high will cause you to lose confidence in your riding. So when you go to your first lesson, listen for the words "good job" every so often between firm commands.
Good luck!
make sure you get along with your coach! That is the most important thing! when you are doing something as dangerous as riding, a good relationship with a trainer is necessary. Also, make sure you and your trainer have a lot of the same beliefs as riding is concerned. Good luck!
A good coach will help you if you're confused with something. This is very important. The instructor will also give thorough information when learning something new. The instructor will not only give you tips, but will point out things that need correcting in your riding.
You have to get along with them. Um...they have to be nice. They have to be a good coach like someone willing to help you when you're having problems.
Have them meet your horse, see how they get along with your horse and how horse smart they are. Then mabey take a practice lesson with them.
When I took lessons, it was just the coachs at the barn. And when I got my own horse(I kept her at a different barn). The barn owners would coach me. Now I have moved her since the barn closed down and there is no coachs where I board at. I found some really good coachs in the area and I have heard nothing but good about them. But what are some things to look for? Like should I see what they do as punishment for a horse and stuff? Or even, what do you look for in a coach? I am really wanting to improve as a rider and my horse has some problems(training wise) that I would like to have a coach help me with as I will know I am going the right way.
The number one thing I look for in a coach is commitment. Here are things to look for to see how committed the coach is:
1) On time. You trainer should be there at least 15 minutes before the lesson.
2) Enthusiasm. The only way you are going to get the most out of your trainer is if he/she is actually interested in teaching you. They should take the time to explain things and welcome questions.
3) Cell phone off. There is nothing more frustrating than to have a trainer who spends half the lesson talking on the phone. By this you can tell very quickly what this trainer is going to be like; if they have this trait, they usually have most all the other traits. I recently switched trainers and I have been learning so much from my new trainer. The only time she answered her phone was when it was her dad calling the day after surgery. And she was even apologetic about that!
4) Preparation. Your trainer should have a plan, at least in their head if not in writing, of what you're going to do during the lesson. If they are lazy enough to wing every lesson, they are probably also too lazy to actually set up exercises and set jumps, ect. therefore you will find your lessons very repetitive.
Another thing to look for is of course knowledge. Your lessons should be full of factual information, constructive criticism, and multiple techniques. If your trainer is only saying things every 5 minutes or is only saying things you have heard of before, they don't know enough to teach your level. A knowledgable instructor will also be much safer if they know what they are doing.
Lastly, you want a positive instructor. An instructor needs to have a balance of patience and drive. If your trainer cuts you too much slack and doesn't push, you'll never raise the bar. But, at the same time a trainer that is too pushy with expectations that are too high will cause you to lose confidence in your riding. So when you go to your first lesson, listen for the words "good job" every so often between firm commands.
Good luck!
make sure you get along with your coach! That is the most important thing! when you are doing something as dangerous as riding, a good relationship with a trainer is necessary. Also, make sure you and your trainer have a lot of the same beliefs as riding is concerned. Good luck!
A good coach will help you if you're confused with something. This is very important. The instructor will also give thorough information when learning something new. The instructor will not only give you tips, but will point out things that need correcting in your riding.
You have to get along with them. Um...they have to be nice. They have to be a good coach like someone willing to help you when you're having problems.
Have them meet your horse, see how they get along with your horse and how horse smart they are. Then mabey take a practice lesson with them.
Guinea pigs and air conditioning...?
I'm wondering if air conditioning can affect guinea pigs? I had a guinea pig that's cage was kept in a living room and the A/C was about...20 feet or more away and not directly facing the cage at all. It got sick and died, but it could have also had respiratory problems from when we got it. I'm just worried about my two pigs that I keep in my room since it's getting close to the time when we put the A/Cs in...
If the cage is near a vent where it's directly hit this could cause issues. It could create or worsen respiratory problems. Be sure to give it plenty of vitamin c and use a good quality bedding, preferably carefresh or softsorbent. Stay away from cedar and corn cob at all costs. Just place the cage furthest away from the vents as possible and all should go well
Make sure its not too cold in the room, and A/Cs dry out air loads which can effect respitary problems - try opening the window as often as you can for fresh air rather than havin ac on all the time.
Also are you letting your guinea pigs outside on the grass too sometimes? Cos they cant just be kept inside in a cage the whole time.
guinea pigs are from a very warm climate, and don't do well with chilly atmospheres. could you put them on the front or back porch throughout the day?
As long as its not blowing directly on them within a close proximity and isn't literally freezing cold.... they'll be fine.
it's possible your AC is dusty/blowing dirty air. other than that, i'd think you'd be fine.
If the cage is near a vent where it's directly hit this could cause issues. It could create or worsen respiratory problems. Be sure to give it plenty of vitamin c and use a good quality bedding, preferably carefresh or softsorbent. Stay away from cedar and corn cob at all costs. Just place the cage furthest away from the vents as possible and all should go well
Make sure its not too cold in the room, and A/Cs dry out air loads which can effect respitary problems - try opening the window as often as you can for fresh air rather than havin ac on all the time.
Also are you letting your guinea pigs outside on the grass too sometimes? Cos they cant just be kept inside in a cage the whole time.
guinea pigs are from a very warm climate, and don't do well with chilly atmospheres. could you put them on the front or back porch throughout the day?
As long as its not blowing directly on them within a close proximity and isn't literally freezing cold.... they'll be fine.
it's possible your AC is dusty/blowing dirty air. other than that, i'd think you'd be fine.
If i turned into a horse what type would i be?
im blonde
would i be a blonde horse?
You'd be a mule.
how would people know these things whyb do you want to know this anyway?
no u would be a brown horse
would i be a blonde horse?
You'd be a mule.
how would people know these things whyb do you want to know this anyway?
no u would be a brown horse
Why does my cat perch at my shoulders? Also, why is she so mean to my boyfriend?
I've had my cat, Nala, now for about 8 months, and she is absolutely wonderful. She's grown to become more attached to me and my boyfriend (and we live together).
She is always coming over to me and cuddle up on my chest (funny that she knows this is most comfortable!), and leaves my boyfriend out. When he goes to take her away from me or pick her up, she wines and wines and sometimes gets very mad at him. I tell him if he just let it happen, she wouldn't be so mean (but I don't really know if this is the case).
Also, at night, she will climb up on the back of the couch while I'm sitting or lying down and sit with her face literally a half an inch away from the back of my head. She has done this EVERY night for the past few months and I cannot figure out why.
If anyone has similar situations PLEASE answer my question...she is my first cat and it's so intriguing to find out about a cat's behavior.
She has simply bonded with you! : )
You are *her* human and she doesn't want your boyfriend to interrupt her time with you. She will learn to deal with it.
Be thankful that she has bonded with you.
One way I communicate with my cats to tell them all is okay is to give them a slow blink. Cats understand this as meaning "All is well. Things feel so safe that I am willing to close my eyes!"
If you do this often enough (only when things *are* all safe and snugly) they will start to blink back at you to tell you all is well.
Enjoy learning about cats! They are fascinating!
I have a cat who is very attached to me also.
You're her mommy and she is a one person cat-not unusual!
The best thing for him to do is to try to get her to play with her favorite toy with him. It is a much better way for them to connect. She has chosen who she wants to snuggle with-perhaps he can be the playtime person!
i didnt know that about blinking!!!!!!! thats so cool!!!!!!!!!!!! it might help with my kitty ^_^
Many cats will bond more closely with 1 person, especially rescued cats. I think your cat is very attached to you and likes to be close to you. Mine loves to cuddle up on my chest (she puts her paws up on my shoulders, licks my shirt and purrs like crazy). When she's done, she crawls down into my lap and settles in for a nap.
Meanwhile, my cat generally ignores my husband except for feeding and play time when they are buddies. If I take her off my lap and put her in his, she just jumps down. The only time she gets in his lap is if I'm up doing something (like the dishes) and she knows I won't be back to sit down for awhile. My husband then pretends to ignore her by picking up a magazine or newspaper and hiding his face in it so he makes no eye contact with her. Only then will she jump into his lap and sleep. Once she's settled, she generally stays there even when I come back in the room.
Cats are an endless source of amusement and bafflement. Enjoy your little one!
She is always coming over to me and cuddle up on my chest (funny that she knows this is most comfortable!), and leaves my boyfriend out. When he goes to take her away from me or pick her up, she wines and wines and sometimes gets very mad at him. I tell him if he just let it happen, she wouldn't be so mean (but I don't really know if this is the case).
Also, at night, she will climb up on the back of the couch while I'm sitting or lying down and sit with her face literally a half an inch away from the back of my head. She has done this EVERY night for the past few months and I cannot figure out why.
If anyone has similar situations PLEASE answer my question...she is my first cat and it's so intriguing to find out about a cat's behavior.
She has simply bonded with you! : )
You are *her* human and she doesn't want your boyfriend to interrupt her time with you. She will learn to deal with it.
Be thankful that she has bonded with you.
One way I communicate with my cats to tell them all is okay is to give them a slow blink. Cats understand this as meaning "All is well. Things feel so safe that I am willing to close my eyes!"
If you do this often enough (only when things *are* all safe and snugly) they will start to blink back at you to tell you all is well.
Enjoy learning about cats! They are fascinating!
I have a cat who is very attached to me also.
You're her mommy and she is a one person cat-not unusual!
The best thing for him to do is to try to get her to play with her favorite toy with him. It is a much better way for them to connect. She has chosen who she wants to snuggle with-perhaps he can be the playtime person!
i didnt know that about blinking!!!!!!! thats so cool!!!!!!!!!!!! it might help with my kitty ^_^
Many cats will bond more closely with 1 person, especially rescued cats. I think your cat is very attached to you and likes to be close to you. Mine loves to cuddle up on my chest (she puts her paws up on my shoulders, licks my shirt and purrs like crazy). When she's done, she crawls down into my lap and settles in for a nap.
Meanwhile, my cat generally ignores my husband except for feeding and play time when they are buddies. If I take her off my lap and put her in his, she just jumps down. The only time she gets in his lap is if I'm up doing something (like the dishes) and she knows I won't be back to sit down for awhile. My husband then pretends to ignore her by picking up a magazine or newspaper and hiding his face in it so he makes no eye contact with her. Only then will she jump into his lap and sleep. Once she's settled, she generally stays there even when I come back in the room.
Cats are an endless source of amusement and bafflement. Enjoy your little one!
Every time a kitten walks by her she scratches them and heeesssesesss at them every single time?
Mother cats do this as a way to let the kittens know that this is my territory so move on, get out of here and / or when they are weaning them. Cats are territorial, some more than others. They will defend their territory even against their own kittens. Wait a few days or so if she is weaning them the scratching will pass and you will have one big happy family and if you don't get them fixed, it will keep getting bigger and bigger and bigger. Kittens quickly get mature enough to mate and they will mate with their mother if the opportunity presents itself.
Kitten is scared, and she not be comfort and hold, and pay attention with a brushing...
The kittie walks by who? Perhaps you are confusing play with kittie terrorism.
Walks by who, Your Mother in-law this would be acceptable behavior LOL
Cats are pointless & wack..get a dog (preferably a rottweiler!)
ha
Kitten is scared, and she not be comfort and hold, and pay attention with a brushing...
The kittie walks by who? Perhaps you are confusing play with kittie terrorism.
Walks by who, Your Mother in-law this would be acceptable behavior LOL
Cats are pointless & wack..get a dog (preferably a rottweiler!)
ha
What Does is The Usual Entry Fee Charged at a Horse Show?
I know it varies but what would you say are the usual entry fees for different varieties of shows? And what would you estimate the total cost of going to a show to be?
A local or fun show in my area charges about $2 to $5 per class with a $5 grounds fee. A breed show here will run about $20 per class or maybe have an all day fee of $60, plus a stall fee of $40 or so. Dressage shows can cost $300 easily for a two day show, and combined shows are $15 per division in my area. You can show on a shoestring by hitting only local shows and not getting stalls, or you could go all out and show several divisions and get stalls and tack stalls.
In my area, a fun local show is about $6
for a show with more points (still not rated though) is about $10
For a rated show... Those can vary by alot. it also matters what type of riding you do. The places I show at dressage is more expensive, and hunters and jumpers are th same lower price. Its depends where you are from also. Look up different show grounds (were you plan on showing) and MOST LIKELY you will find the fee there for both classes and ground fee, and medical too. I spend about $200 a show. But its also $10 a class (5 or more classes), gas for trailering, snack stand, grounds fee, medical, registering fee, stall, shavings, and other things.
I currently show at hunter/jumper shows and the entrance fee tends to be pretty costly. It is about a $25 dollar schooling fee as well as $75 for jumping and flat classes. This does not include board at the horse show as well as any show clothes you need. An estimated cost of a horse show for hunter/jumpers (depending on the level) is about $400-$500.
I'm not super smart when it comes to shows, but the ones I've been to, or know how much they are, are: a dressage show(in Oregon) was $25 a class. So each time you go through one of the tests, you pay $25. I think it was all training level, if that changes anything. Another one was just at the barn that I had gone to for years, they did little shows every now and then. The last one I WENT to was $3 a class, but the last one that had was $5, I think, so it just went up a little because of the economy.
Hope I helped a little!
What discipline? What level? You have not given enough info for anyone to give a useful answer.
I ride hunter/jumpers. Local, unrated shows are $20 per class. There are typically 3-4 classes in the division.
When we go to the big shows the fee can be as much as $2000 for the division for the A/O horses and upwards of $4000 for the Grand Prix horses. This does not include stall fees ($350 per stall), hotel, or meals.
Edit: I would love to know why anyone would give a thumbs down to this answer. It is accurate information. I can provide a link to the prize list if anyone would care to see it.
well for a small barrel racing show, its about $10-$15 per class (barrel racing, pole bending, arena race, etc.) but then you have the open classes that everyone enters, then it gets to about $20. but if it is a big show (NBHA, NPBA, etc.) you can only run once and it costs about $20-$30. hope this helps!
NABRA (northern arizona barrel racing association) is $50 to enter like for the wole year and then $8 per run but you have to enter before you can run.. but im almost positive ur talkin' 'bout english so i have no freakin clue :|
EDIT: wtf? its stupid that you gave me a thumbs down! i was just trying to help! gosh if you dont appreciate me trying to help then i wont.. oh and the person above me why did they give he/she a thumbs down either? they told you CORRECT information!! gosh idk about you people!
when i was showing eight years ago it was 7 bucks a class now its 15 a class.
go to mexico they pay girls to take it from horses ; ]
A local or fun show in my area charges about $2 to $5 per class with a $5 grounds fee. A breed show here will run about $20 per class or maybe have an all day fee of $60, plus a stall fee of $40 or so. Dressage shows can cost $300 easily for a two day show, and combined shows are $15 per division in my area. You can show on a shoestring by hitting only local shows and not getting stalls, or you could go all out and show several divisions and get stalls and tack stalls.
In my area, a fun local show is about $6
for a show with more points (still not rated though) is about $10
For a rated show... Those can vary by alot. it also matters what type of riding you do. The places I show at dressage is more expensive, and hunters and jumpers are th same lower price. Its depends where you are from also. Look up different show grounds (were you plan on showing) and MOST LIKELY you will find the fee there for both classes and ground fee, and medical too. I spend about $200 a show. But its also $10 a class (5 or more classes), gas for trailering, snack stand, grounds fee, medical, registering fee, stall, shavings, and other things.
I currently show at hunter/jumper shows and the entrance fee tends to be pretty costly. It is about a $25 dollar schooling fee as well as $75 for jumping and flat classes. This does not include board at the horse show as well as any show clothes you need. An estimated cost of a horse show for hunter/jumpers (depending on the level) is about $400-$500.
I'm not super smart when it comes to shows, but the ones I've been to, or know how much they are, are: a dressage show(in Oregon) was $25 a class. So each time you go through one of the tests, you pay $25. I think it was all training level, if that changes anything. Another one was just at the barn that I had gone to for years, they did little shows every now and then. The last one I WENT to was $3 a class, but the last one that had was $5, I think, so it just went up a little because of the economy.
Hope I helped a little!
What discipline? What level? You have not given enough info for anyone to give a useful answer.
I ride hunter/jumpers. Local, unrated shows are $20 per class. There are typically 3-4 classes in the division.
When we go to the big shows the fee can be as much as $2000 for the division for the A/O horses and upwards of $4000 for the Grand Prix horses. This does not include stall fees ($350 per stall), hotel, or meals.
Edit: I would love to know why anyone would give a thumbs down to this answer. It is accurate information. I can provide a link to the prize list if anyone would care to see it.
well for a small barrel racing show, its about $10-$15 per class (barrel racing, pole bending, arena race, etc.) but then you have the open classes that everyone enters, then it gets to about $20. but if it is a big show (NBHA, NPBA, etc.) you can only run once and it costs about $20-$30. hope this helps!
NABRA (northern arizona barrel racing association) is $50 to enter like for the wole year and then $8 per run but you have to enter before you can run.. but im almost positive ur talkin' 'bout english so i have no freakin clue :|
EDIT: wtf? its stupid that you gave me a thumbs down! i was just trying to help! gosh if you dont appreciate me trying to help then i wont.. oh and the person above me why did they give he/she a thumbs down either? they told you CORRECT information!! gosh idk about you people!
when i was showing eight years ago it was 7 bucks a class now its 15 a class.
go to mexico they pay girls to take it from horses ; ]
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