I know,people nee dot realize that dogs are truly superior!
What have cats done for anyone lately?
Lick themselves? Pee?
Cats rule while dogs drool.
when you say "we" - do you mean humans? or dogs?
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
New born kitten, might be runt, isn
My cat just had four kittens today. They are so cute! I am worried about one though. I think it is the runt. It doesn't seem to eat. I have not seen it eating a single time. I try to put it to a teat and it won't grab onto it. But it still searches around for one when I put her down. The other kittens grab onto one right away but not this one. What should I do? Maybe I missed it and she isn't hungry (though I doubt that since they are only hours old) or maybe she doesn't have feeling in her nose and can't figure out when something is there? any suggestions? Should I go get a kitten bottle and try to bottle feed her?
if the kitten doesnt get any of his mother milk within the first day or two it could be bad..def try bottle feeding if nothing else..watch the kittens for awhile..if ur sure the other kittens are eating good id move them and let the little one eat by himself for a while unless the mama cat doesnt want to do that..sometimes if theres 3 other kittens they will push the littlest away and he wont be able to latch on and sit for awhile on the teat..good luck
my cat did the same thing when she was little. Sometimes it takes time for the kitties to ajust I gave mine 8 hours but she wouldn't eat so I bought I bottle. If you do bottle feed warm up the milk but not too much.that's all it took for mine.
Put a drop of warm milk on the tip of your finger and see if she licks it. If so, try putting her on the mama cat again. If she still doesn't eat, then get a bottle.
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deffinatly get a kitten bottle. but use the right kind of kitten milk not cows milk :D
if the kitten doesnt get any of his mother milk within the first day or two it could be bad..def try bottle feeding if nothing else..watch the kittens for awhile..if ur sure the other kittens are eating good id move them and let the little one eat by himself for a while unless the mama cat doesnt want to do that..sometimes if theres 3 other kittens they will push the littlest away and he wont be able to latch on and sit for awhile on the teat..good luck
my cat did the same thing when she was little. Sometimes it takes time for the kitties to ajust I gave mine 8 hours but she wouldn't eat so I bought I bottle. If you do bottle feed warm up the milk but not too much.that's all it took for mine.
Put a drop of warm milk on the tip of your finger and see if she licks it. If so, try putting her on the mama cat again. If she still doesn't eat, then get a bottle.
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deffinatly get a kitten bottle. but use the right kind of kitten milk not cows milk :D
My cat injured his back paw and he is still limping?
Basically on thursday my cat jumped off my lap awkwardly and hurt his back paw he wasn't putting any weight down on it but since then he has been putting more weight down gradually and still jumps and walks about and eats e.c.t but he still has a slight limp he lets me touch his foot and i don't think its broken, is there anything i can do to check it as i don't have the money to visit the vets :( :( i was told it could just be a sprained paw???
he should be fine if he has rest, but cats at the end of the day are playful. my 2 cats always run frantacally round the house. he'll probably b as good as new at the end of the week.
if you can handle his paw and squeze a little without any big reactions, he probable has just sprained it. its just like us stepping on the side of a hole and twisting our ancles.
he proably is fine, hope this helps
You need to take him to a vet, regardless of your finances. He is your responsibility, and to be perfectly frank, most posters on YA are not millionaires, but we all still find a way to take care of our pets. Cats do NOT display the amount of pain they are really in, because it would get them killed in the wild. If your cat is displaying pain, then its severe and the injury could cause him permanent damage. Please take him in and discuss a payment plan with your vet, and if you really can't take care of him, consider surrendering him to your local shelter so they can care for him and place him in a home that can care for him.
If it is getting better, that's a good sign. You should just wait it out a bit and see if he gets back to normal soon. There's nothing you can really do for him right now but take him in and I doubt you are willing to pay hundreds of dollars for an x-ray, just for them to tell you that it's a sprain, Good luck!
the problem with animal they cant tell you how much pain there in try seeing if the foot is swolen or try to move it around see if you cat fliches best thing to do is go to the vets its been 6days lend money if you have to or go to a charity vets (in the uk we had PDSA and RSPCA ) there alot cheeper
From that height he's unlikely to have broken anything just sprained it. If it's getting better then he'll probably be fine.
If you are really broke (and claiming benefits) then you can always take him to the PDSA for free treatment.
Keep watching him. If he continues to limp I would take him to the Vet. Since he isn't crying and only limping he could have bruised the pad of his foot. You could call the Vet sometimes they will give you free advice over the phone.
Here's an answer give you pet to someone that can afford to take care of them properly. If you can't afford to take it to the vet and do the right thing then dont get another one.
Does sound like just a sprain that's getting better. He wouldn't suffer you to touch his foot if it was very painful.
You need to take to the vet to get checked out it could be ligament or tendon.
please find someone who cares about this cat enough to take proper care of it since you don't seem to want to.
he should be fine if he has rest, but cats at the end of the day are playful. my 2 cats always run frantacally round the house. he'll probably b as good as new at the end of the week.
if you can handle his paw and squeze a little without any big reactions, he probable has just sprained it. its just like us stepping on the side of a hole and twisting our ancles.
he proably is fine, hope this helps
You need to take him to a vet, regardless of your finances. He is your responsibility, and to be perfectly frank, most posters on YA are not millionaires, but we all still find a way to take care of our pets. Cats do NOT display the amount of pain they are really in, because it would get them killed in the wild. If your cat is displaying pain, then its severe and the injury could cause him permanent damage. Please take him in and discuss a payment plan with your vet, and if you really can't take care of him, consider surrendering him to your local shelter so they can care for him and place him in a home that can care for him.
If it is getting better, that's a good sign. You should just wait it out a bit and see if he gets back to normal soon. There's nothing you can really do for him right now but take him in and I doubt you are willing to pay hundreds of dollars for an x-ray, just for them to tell you that it's a sprain, Good luck!
the problem with animal they cant tell you how much pain there in try seeing if the foot is swolen or try to move it around see if you cat fliches best thing to do is go to the vets its been 6days lend money if you have to or go to a charity vets (in the uk we had PDSA and RSPCA ) there alot cheeper
From that height he's unlikely to have broken anything just sprained it. If it's getting better then he'll probably be fine.
If you are really broke (and claiming benefits) then you can always take him to the PDSA for free treatment.
Keep watching him. If he continues to limp I would take him to the Vet. Since he isn't crying and only limping he could have bruised the pad of his foot. You could call the Vet sometimes they will give you free advice over the phone.
Here's an answer give you pet to someone that can afford to take care of them properly. If you can't afford to take it to the vet and do the right thing then dont get another one.
Does sound like just a sprain that's getting better. He wouldn't suffer you to touch his foot if it was very painful.
You need to take to the vet to get checked out it could be ligament or tendon.
please find someone who cares about this cat enough to take proper care of it since you don't seem to want to.
I am not worried or anything-but my cat will stare at a bug and just half meow. like mea-a-a-a-a-a?
he will cut his meow short like he is laughing.
Cats often do this while 'hunting'. It's an evolutionary thing that's held over from when they were more feral and hunted food in the wild. It's a quiet meow to not scare the prey away. My cat is a bug hunter too and I asked my vet about it once. It's adorable.
It's normal, because I have a 5 year old cat and a 9 month kitten who both do that when they find a fly inside the house.
She's just trying to figure the little guy out. Its cute when they are so curious about something.
lol thats very normal. My cat also does this. First she'll do that werid meow then she'll chatter. Its so cute!
Cats often do this while 'hunting'. It's an evolutionary thing that's held over from when they were more feral and hunted food in the wild. It's a quiet meow to not scare the prey away. My cat is a bug hunter too and I asked my vet about it once. It's adorable.
It's normal, because I have a 5 year old cat and a 9 month kitten who both do that when they find a fly inside the house.
She's just trying to figure the little guy out. Its cute when they are so curious about something.
lol thats very normal. My cat also does this. First she'll do that werid meow then she'll chatter. Its so cute!
My gf
My gf's cats breathing especially her purring has gotten a lot louder (like a motorboat) she has also made like the wheezing sound like she has bronchitis or athsma, it like a low hum that has appeared out of nowhere. Its got me worried cause I love the little fur ball but the gf has problems taking care of animals, so I'm looking into it for her. She has thrown up her food twice in the last week (it was warm) and the only other time previous to this I found out what a hairball thrown up looks like, but this has been food. I just want to make sure she's ok, or if any of you have any advice on what could be happening, thanks:)
It could be a few things:
If she's an indoor cat she is very likely to have a hairball problem, outdoor cats get it too but not as often. They have special food for cats that are indoors to help with that problem and weight control. Also they have a hairball remedy in a tube that you can give to your cat orally. You can find it almost anywhere and you give them a little 1 inch squirt everyday between meals until symptoms disappear, then continue it once or twice a week. This with good oral care will help. FYI if you try this and can't get the cat to eat if off of your finger wipe it on there paw, cats hate being dirty and will lick it off. They also sell a special kind of cat grass for them to eat to help them digest everything if they are indoors.
Another problem could be a upper respiratory infection, my cat got one right after being spayed which is very common with cats who under go surgery, I'm not sure why but that's what the vet said. If this is the problem when the vet gives you medicine ask for it in a liquid, it's better than pills because cats often can't get the pills down all the way which will create ulcer like sores in there throat (happened to my cat when she had her URI and we had to bring her back and get her the liquid)
She could also be getting into something that is making her sick. Cats for some reason like to lick and chew on plastic grocery bags or garbage bags, types of ribbons...they are crazy! If she uses a litter box make sure everything that comes out in there looks normal because if she's eating something weird the answer might be in there.
It is also allergy season not only for humans but for animals too. There are so many possibilities that the cat should probably be seen by a vet if it isn't resolved soon. Good Luck and I would try the hairball stuff until you can get her in to see the vet. Otherwise they have those emergency vets that are always open, if it's a URI it could probably kill her if not taken care of.
She may have a respiratory condition or allergies. My cats sometimes throw up, but they are fine. The fact that it sounds different than usual, you may just want to take it to the vet. It doesn't sound that serious.
I would definitely take her to your vet. She may have an infection od some kind.
I have to disagree with the previous answerer. Breathing issues can be very serious. Especially combined with vomiting. You should take her to the vet as soon as you can. You cal also call the vet and explain to the tech that answers the phone what the situation is and they can tell you how urgent it is the cat be seen.
Sounds like she has a cold and/or respiratory infection. Respiratory Infections can become quite serious and often need antibiotics to cure. if she's throwing up that can quickly lead to dehydration problems. Something you can do in the mean time is turn the shower on hot and lock the kitty in the bathroom. The steam will help loosen up the gunk in her lungs and airway and help her breath better for a little bit.
Please at least give the vet a call and explain the issue. It wont cost you anything and will give you a better idea of what is wrong and if/how soon kitty needs to be seen. They might also have some more ideas on what to do in the mean time.
Good luck with your kitty! :)
It could be a few things:
If she's an indoor cat she is very likely to have a hairball problem, outdoor cats get it too but not as often. They have special food for cats that are indoors to help with that problem and weight control. Also they have a hairball remedy in a tube that you can give to your cat orally. You can find it almost anywhere and you give them a little 1 inch squirt everyday between meals until symptoms disappear, then continue it once or twice a week. This with good oral care will help. FYI if you try this and can't get the cat to eat if off of your finger wipe it on there paw, cats hate being dirty and will lick it off. They also sell a special kind of cat grass for them to eat to help them digest everything if they are indoors.
Another problem could be a upper respiratory infection, my cat got one right after being spayed which is very common with cats who under go surgery, I'm not sure why but that's what the vet said. If this is the problem when the vet gives you medicine ask for it in a liquid, it's better than pills because cats often can't get the pills down all the way which will create ulcer like sores in there throat (happened to my cat when she had her URI and we had to bring her back and get her the liquid)
She could also be getting into something that is making her sick. Cats for some reason like to lick and chew on plastic grocery bags or garbage bags, types of ribbons...they are crazy! If she uses a litter box make sure everything that comes out in there looks normal because if she's eating something weird the answer might be in there.
It is also allergy season not only for humans but for animals too. There are so many possibilities that the cat should probably be seen by a vet if it isn't resolved soon. Good Luck and I would try the hairball stuff until you can get her in to see the vet. Otherwise they have those emergency vets that are always open, if it's a URI it could probably kill her if not taken care of.
She may have a respiratory condition or allergies. My cats sometimes throw up, but they are fine. The fact that it sounds different than usual, you may just want to take it to the vet. It doesn't sound that serious.
I would definitely take her to your vet. She may have an infection od some kind.
I have to disagree with the previous answerer. Breathing issues can be very serious. Especially combined with vomiting. You should take her to the vet as soon as you can. You cal also call the vet and explain to the tech that answers the phone what the situation is and they can tell you how urgent it is the cat be seen.
Sounds like she has a cold and/or respiratory infection. Respiratory Infections can become quite serious and often need antibiotics to cure. if she's throwing up that can quickly lead to dehydration problems. Something you can do in the mean time is turn the shower on hot and lock the kitty in the bathroom. The steam will help loosen up the gunk in her lungs and airway and help her breath better for a little bit.
Please at least give the vet a call and explain the issue. It wont cost you anything and will give you a better idea of what is wrong and if/how soon kitty needs to be seen. They might also have some more ideas on what to do in the mean time.
Good luck with your kitty! :)
How can i keep my 2 adult cats happy in one room?
I'm moving into a 4 bedroom house this weekend, and I'm renting one room to myself. The room mates are fine with me bringing my cats, but only if they're kept in my room at all times, because one of the guys has a bad cat allergy. My 2 cats are well behaved and trained, i have no problem keeping all their food, litterbox, toys etc. in my room (i'm used to it.) But I'm afraid they're going to become depressed, moving from my parents house (moderate sized 3 bedroom house) into a decent sized bedroom. I can't leave my cats behind, they're my companions and i care about them so much. This living arrangement is only for the next 9 months until the lease is up and i have more money, then I'd find my own one bedroom apartment where my cats will have more room. I just want to know how I can keep my 2 babies happy just living in my bedroom all the time. If anybody can relate or has had a similar experience, I'd appreciate your help!
Well, I'm sure people that live in tiny NYC studios have cats and they're happy. So in your case, I don't think it should be a problem living in a bedroom, especially since it's only temporary. I suggest getting them a big cat tree so they have their "own" space, and give them lots and lots of love and attention ~ but I'm sure you do that already :)
I would do what you think would make your cats happier. If they are very attached to you I would take them with you. If you think they'd be better staying with your parents until better living arrangements then do that. It's also very stressful for animals moving around a lot. If they normally follow you around and sleep with you at night definitely take them. Otherwise leave them with your parents for now and visit often with kitty treats and toys. Don't forget it's only 9 months, pick what's less stressful for them.
If the cats are already cool with each other and well trained, then it shouldn't be a problem. Does your bedroom have a window? If it does, you might see about rigging up a "window cage" where they could sit when the weather's nice. It will keep them from feeling quite so cooped up.
The main thing is for you to still play with them so they don't feel abandoned and lonely. And check your shoes carefully the first week or so...
Well, I'm sure people that live in tiny NYC studios have cats and they're happy. So in your case, I don't think it should be a problem living in a bedroom, especially since it's only temporary. I suggest getting them a big cat tree so they have their "own" space, and give them lots and lots of love and attention ~ but I'm sure you do that already :)
I would do what you think would make your cats happier. If they are very attached to you I would take them with you. If you think they'd be better staying with your parents until better living arrangements then do that. It's also very stressful for animals moving around a lot. If they normally follow you around and sleep with you at night definitely take them. Otherwise leave them with your parents for now and visit often with kitty treats and toys. Don't forget it's only 9 months, pick what's less stressful for them.
If the cats are already cool with each other and well trained, then it shouldn't be a problem. Does your bedroom have a window? If it does, you might see about rigging up a "window cage" where they could sit when the weather's nice. It will keep them from feeling quite so cooped up.
The main thing is for you to still play with them so they don't feel abandoned and lonely. And check your shoes carefully the first week or so...
My 1 year old cat is being aggressive towards my new 8 week old kitten?
My friend gave my fiance & me this really cute 8 week year old grey tabby kitten yesterday; we're really happy & she's very playful and healthy. The only problem we've had is that our 1 year old female cat is being really aggressive towards her. She hisses & growls whenever she sees her & has even tried to take a swipe at her a few times. The little kitten wants to play with her but our older cat just won't have it. My older cat has never been like this towards our other male cat who is 2 years old (he gets along fine with the kitten). How can we get my older cat to accept the new kitten & get along? Thank you.
They are both female by the way, & the older one is spayed and has never had kittens.
They will eventually get along. TRUST me, I had 4 cats at one time :).
The one year old kitty is just trying to let the younger kitten knows who's boss. It's a territory thing.
What I did was keep the youngest kitty in a seperate room. My other cats would growl at me when I left the room because I smelt of the new kitten. Soon enough the oldest cat got used to the scent on me. And every so often I would allow him near the smallest. Soon enough they will be playing. It takes time.
Also, try to give the oldest cat the same amount of attention as you did before the kitten arrived. The cat may be afriad that you will pay more attention to the new-comer.
Your cat probably sees it as an invasion of territory. It was just her and the other cat before. Now she feels like the kitten is intruding. She is probably also asserting dominance over the kitten.
You could try giving your cat more attention. She might feel that you no longer belong to her. Once your kitten grows older the older cat might get along with her more. Give her time and perhaps they'll warm to each other.
Use a baby gate to keep them apart. Let them hiss and swipe through the holes in the gate (with your supervision) and hopefully then they can get used to each other. Since they are both so young, they can grow up living together, which will make them more comfortable. After a while of that, try different ways of showing that they are both nice, like having one on your lap and the other watching. This could all take around 2 years, but soon they should be fine.
My older cat did the same thing when i brought in a new kitten. Its a new animal on your cats territory, they have to get used to each other. Its better to introduce them slowly instead of just shoving them together instantly
i found myself in that same situation, i bought a 6wk old cat into a household with 2 adult cats, 1 male 1 female. i kept 3 of them apart wen i was not around,but i would normally hold the adult cat down and bring the baby over to lick them,,that was the meeting point,,i did that for a few days..then allowed them to meet briefly whilei was present, the male cat got used to her quite quickly,,,he even taught her to clean herself, butthe female adult( the queen of the house) was subborn,,she`s never had kittens b4 and wasnt having any of it..but after time,,i guess she got used to the kittens smell, and usd to her running around,,,just giv them some time...ur kitten will soon be running around behind them...
They are both female by the way, & the older one is spayed and has never had kittens.
They will eventually get along. TRUST me, I had 4 cats at one time :).
The one year old kitty is just trying to let the younger kitten knows who's boss. It's a territory thing.
What I did was keep the youngest kitty in a seperate room. My other cats would growl at me when I left the room because I smelt of the new kitten. Soon enough the oldest cat got used to the scent on me. And every so often I would allow him near the smallest. Soon enough they will be playing. It takes time.
Also, try to give the oldest cat the same amount of attention as you did before the kitten arrived. The cat may be afriad that you will pay more attention to the new-comer.
Your cat probably sees it as an invasion of territory. It was just her and the other cat before. Now she feels like the kitten is intruding. She is probably also asserting dominance over the kitten.
You could try giving your cat more attention. She might feel that you no longer belong to her. Once your kitten grows older the older cat might get along with her more. Give her time and perhaps they'll warm to each other.
Use a baby gate to keep them apart. Let them hiss and swipe through the holes in the gate (with your supervision) and hopefully then they can get used to each other. Since they are both so young, they can grow up living together, which will make them more comfortable. After a while of that, try different ways of showing that they are both nice, like having one on your lap and the other watching. This could all take around 2 years, but soon they should be fine.
My older cat did the same thing when i brought in a new kitten. Its a new animal on your cats territory, they have to get used to each other. Its better to introduce them slowly instead of just shoving them together instantly
i found myself in that same situation, i bought a 6wk old cat into a household with 2 adult cats, 1 male 1 female. i kept 3 of them apart wen i was not around,but i would normally hold the adult cat down and bring the baby over to lick them,,that was the meeting point,,i did that for a few days..then allowed them to meet briefly whilei was present, the male cat got used to her quite quickly,,,he even taught her to clean herself, butthe female adult( the queen of the house) was subborn,,she`s never had kittens b4 and wasnt having any of it..but after time,,i guess she got used to the kittens smell, and usd to her running around,,,just giv them some time...ur kitten will soon be running around behind them...
I took my new cat outside..and when i brought her in she went CRAZY!?
I bought a new cat about a week ago. she realllllly really really wanted outside, so i put her on a harness and leash and let her explore a little. she went out there and was laying and rubbing her body all over in the dirt. when i brought her in... i gave her a treat for being good...then she just went bazerk...and started running around and freaking out. she started scratching upthe carpet...and like jumping around on her string toy. she is usually really really MELLOW and sweet... it was just a crazy moment! what do you think is up. should i trust her to go outside again. eventually i want her to be an outdoor indoor cat, but i dont want her to run away and freak out!
first of all... did you know the lifespan of an outdoor cat is 3-5 years? if you love your kitty keep it indoors only.
and secondly.... I have a leash and a harness for my kitty too... she loves to walk with it if I hold up her leash and ask her if she wants to go outside she meows like crazy and starts rubbing my legs its cute.
My kitty always goes nuts when I bring her back in.... but she eventually settles back in to her normal self... I think it's just that the cat likes it out there so much that they are frustrated that they can't figure out how to get back out there again... so when cats are frustrated they just go nuts and take it out on you... carpet... toys... its just nature.
but I love taking my cat outside and she seems to love it too... it's rare that a cat will walk on those things so you are lucky like me!
She must like the outdoors better! She acted that way because she wanted to be outside. And the fresh air must have felt good to her. She's fine. And she'll be fine after a while of taking her outside. If she was inside her whole life then the fresh air hit her hard. Again, she'll be fine.
Hope That Helps!
My Cat does this too. My cat is a outdoor indoor and she is the daughter of a feral cat, she just has a wild side, cause she goes a little crazy now and then, its actually pretty cute.
My cat's the opposite. She loves being inside like the Queen (Pun definitely intended LOL) of the house hold. When she goes outside she crouches down and crawls along.
lol cats just have moments and she will eventually be able to be an inside outside cat good luck with your kitten!
first of all... did you know the lifespan of an outdoor cat is 3-5 years? if you love your kitty keep it indoors only.
and secondly.... I have a leash and a harness for my kitty too... she loves to walk with it if I hold up her leash and ask her if she wants to go outside she meows like crazy and starts rubbing my legs its cute.
My kitty always goes nuts when I bring her back in.... but she eventually settles back in to her normal self... I think it's just that the cat likes it out there so much that they are frustrated that they can't figure out how to get back out there again... so when cats are frustrated they just go nuts and take it out on you... carpet... toys... its just nature.
but I love taking my cat outside and she seems to love it too... it's rare that a cat will walk on those things so you are lucky like me!
She must like the outdoors better! She acted that way because she wanted to be outside. And the fresh air must have felt good to her. She's fine. And she'll be fine after a while of taking her outside. If she was inside her whole life then the fresh air hit her hard. Again, she'll be fine.
Hope That Helps!
My Cat does this too. My cat is a outdoor indoor and she is the daughter of a feral cat, she just has a wild side, cause she goes a little crazy now and then, its actually pretty cute.
My cat's the opposite. She loves being inside like the Queen (Pun definitely intended LOL) of the house hold. When she goes outside she crouches down and crawls along.
lol cats just have moments and she will eventually be able to be an inside outside cat good luck with your kitten!
Can your indoor cat get Flea
My cat has never been outside I'm just wondering if I need to get a flea and tick collar for him so that they won't come.
You don't need to get a flea and tick collar, but it isn't to say that he won't get fleas. You can bring them in on your shoes and clothes, ticks too. I suggest you buy a flea comb and just quickly go over him once a month. He may have the odd one or two fleas every few months, but nothing like an infestation and certainly not enough to get a flea collar. I hate putting chemicals on my cats. If you are worried though, lightly spray some very diluted lavender oil on your cat and you'll never have a flea or a tick. They hate lavender.
EDIT: I wouldn't suggest using products such as Advantage, Frontline & Revolution. One of my cats had an allergic reaction to Revolution, it burnt her fur and skin off and it was very painful for her for months. She now permently has the scars from the chemical burns she had, and her skin is still sensitive. It is rare to have an allergic reaction to it, but it's not unheard of. It's better to go natural and use lavender.
Indoor cats can get fleas and ticks, as the little beggars (the bugs) can hitch a ride on shoes and clothing. Fleas are the biggest worry they will reproduce quickly -- ticks don't breed until they are bloated and by that time you have seen them and removed them.
Flea collars, however, are virtually useless. The do not repel fleas effectively and only offer minimal protection, and can be dangerous. In other words, if your cat has a flea collar, it will do nothing to stop fleas from infesting your cat or home. Your best bet is to get a topical med like Advantage or Frontline. However, I wouldn't dose an indoor cat unless there was some evidence of fleas, and that would be scratching, little white flea eggs and pepper-looking flea poop on the coat, and, of course, fleas leaping on and off the cat.
As other have said, fleas can come inside on shoes and clothes.
Don't use flea collars. First they are not as effective as other things and they can injure the cat. Some are allergic to the collars and the chemicals can harm their skin.
Instead of a collar, use Frontline, Advantage, or Revolution. These are products sold by vets which you put on the cat's skin between their shoulders.
It spreads over the cat, through I think, the lymph system, and kills fleas when the bite the cat or come in contact with the product.
Ask your vet about them.
We only use them if we have a cat with fleas but they are intended to be used each month.
We have a few cats and the monthly cost is too high for us so we only use them when we have a cat with fleas.
If you have only one cat, you can probably afford to treat them monthly.
Talk to your vet about them, most vets have one they prefer.
In bad flea years, we will spray our yard with an insecticide that kills fleas, it really helps.
Your cat definatly won't get ticks if your not walking through areas that commonly have ticks and bring one home. Same thing with fleas. As long as you or anyone else coming into your home is flea free, then your cat won't get fleas.
Don't treat something that isn't there.
flea's can come through screens but ticks most likey want get on him but they could be carried in on like a shoe or something.
yes they can. and just about 2 fleas can reproduce to hundreds and they will spread all over your house, so don't take the risk.
NO FLEA COLLARS! They don't work on the fleas and are extremely toxic.
yes fleas can enter your house even through screens
You don't need to get a flea and tick collar, but it isn't to say that he won't get fleas. You can bring them in on your shoes and clothes, ticks too. I suggest you buy a flea comb and just quickly go over him once a month. He may have the odd one or two fleas every few months, but nothing like an infestation and certainly not enough to get a flea collar. I hate putting chemicals on my cats. If you are worried though, lightly spray some very diluted lavender oil on your cat and you'll never have a flea or a tick. They hate lavender.
EDIT: I wouldn't suggest using products such as Advantage, Frontline & Revolution. One of my cats had an allergic reaction to Revolution, it burnt her fur and skin off and it was very painful for her for months. She now permently has the scars from the chemical burns she had, and her skin is still sensitive. It is rare to have an allergic reaction to it, but it's not unheard of. It's better to go natural and use lavender.
Indoor cats can get fleas and ticks, as the little beggars (the bugs) can hitch a ride on shoes and clothing. Fleas are the biggest worry they will reproduce quickly -- ticks don't breed until they are bloated and by that time you have seen them and removed them.
Flea collars, however, are virtually useless. The do not repel fleas effectively and only offer minimal protection, and can be dangerous. In other words, if your cat has a flea collar, it will do nothing to stop fleas from infesting your cat or home. Your best bet is to get a topical med like Advantage or Frontline. However, I wouldn't dose an indoor cat unless there was some evidence of fleas, and that would be scratching, little white flea eggs and pepper-looking flea poop on the coat, and, of course, fleas leaping on and off the cat.
As other have said, fleas can come inside on shoes and clothes.
Don't use flea collars. First they are not as effective as other things and they can injure the cat. Some are allergic to the collars and the chemicals can harm their skin.
Instead of a collar, use Frontline, Advantage, or Revolution. These are products sold by vets which you put on the cat's skin between their shoulders.
It spreads over the cat, through I think, the lymph system, and kills fleas when the bite the cat or come in contact with the product.
Ask your vet about them.
We only use them if we have a cat with fleas but they are intended to be used each month.
We have a few cats and the monthly cost is too high for us so we only use them when we have a cat with fleas.
If you have only one cat, you can probably afford to treat them monthly.
Talk to your vet about them, most vets have one they prefer.
In bad flea years, we will spray our yard with an insecticide that kills fleas, it really helps.
Your cat definatly won't get ticks if your not walking through areas that commonly have ticks and bring one home. Same thing with fleas. As long as you or anyone else coming into your home is flea free, then your cat won't get fleas.
Don't treat something that isn't there.
flea's can come through screens but ticks most likey want get on him but they could be carried in on like a shoe or something.
yes they can. and just about 2 fleas can reproduce to hundreds and they will spread all over your house, so don't take the risk.
NO FLEA COLLARS! They don't work on the fleas and are extremely toxic.
yes fleas can enter your house even through screens
Is my cats breed a bombay?
I have a cat and he is 17 years old. He is pure black apart from a white patch under his neck that is about 3cm by 3cm. His eyes are a coppery yellow colour.
I was reading a book about cat breeds and there was a picture of a Bombay cat that looks exactly like my cat apart from the white patch. I read the characteristics and they were all like my cat and I read the appearance and it sounds exactly like my cat apart from the white patch. I then read on and it said that pure black all over and my cat isn't because of his white patch on his chin.
If my cat isn't a bombay then what breed could he be. I really want to know!
P.S
He had a brother that has sadly past away who looked exactly like him. He also had the white patch under his neck. I guess it might be something to do with genes but I'm ot sure. Please help!
Thank You for all of your help : )
You just asked this, and I said:
Probably not! :)
Unless he came from a breeder and has the papers to prove it, your kitty is simply a very handsome-sounding Domestic Shorthair, or DSH.
Best of luck with him!
Unless you have papers to prove he is a Bombay, its very unlikely to be one. Bombay's are not running around loose - they are not a popular pet and are pretty much confined to dedicated breeders or those showing the cats.
And white spots are never found on Bombays. They were originally bred from Burmese cats and basically look like a black Burmese instead of a brown one.
odds are he is a domestic short hair
I was reading a book about cat breeds and there was a picture of a Bombay cat that looks exactly like my cat apart from the white patch. I read the characteristics and they were all like my cat and I read the appearance and it sounds exactly like my cat apart from the white patch. I then read on and it said that pure black all over and my cat isn't because of his white patch on his chin.
If my cat isn't a bombay then what breed could he be. I really want to know!
P.S
He had a brother that has sadly past away who looked exactly like him. He also had the white patch under his neck. I guess it might be something to do with genes but I'm ot sure. Please help!
Thank You for all of your help : )
You just asked this, and I said:
Probably not! :)
Unless he came from a breeder and has the papers to prove it, your kitty is simply a very handsome-sounding Domestic Shorthair, or DSH.
Best of luck with him!
Unless you have papers to prove he is a Bombay, its very unlikely to be one. Bombay's are not running around loose - they are not a popular pet and are pretty much confined to dedicated breeders or those showing the cats.
And white spots are never found on Bombays. They were originally bred from Burmese cats and basically look like a black Burmese instead of a brown one.
odds are he is a domestic short hair
Behavioral problem with my cat?
My cat, Eddie, goes into my room that's upstairs and brings my stuffed animals downstairs. He holds it in his mouth and meows for a good amount of time. He treats my stuffed animals as if they're his prey. Although quite comical, it gets a bit annoying. This happened before around the same time last year, and I'm not quite sure why he is doing this. Any answers?
I have four cats and one of them does this all the time--except with dog toys. She hunts them and then attacks them. Honestly, it doesn't bother me. It is her natural instinct and since she is a house cat, a stuffed bone is about the closest she is going to get to a wild rabbit. Perhaps provide more toys for your cat, like balls she can chase (the way she would chase a mouse, more running instead of stalking) and cat nip to entertain her. Alpine Scratchers are also fun for cats--it is an inclined cardboard (cheap!) scratcher that you sprinkle cat nip on--this can entertain your cat (quietly) for a long time. As long as your cat is happy and having fun, which it sounds like he is, you should be happy :)
Cats never lose their instinct to hunt even if they never get to experience it for real. I had a female cat that used to carry a soft toy around the house as her prey. I think it's just a way for them to practice their hunting skills and help them judge the size and weight of prey that they could tackle.
You have answered your own question. it is prey and he is parading it around. When my cat started doing this (with a shoelace) I thought he was in serious pain and came running down the stairs only to see this.
He walks around with it in his mouth like he has to poop! Yes, annoying but I let it go and he stops after a bit.
my cat does this all the time, but hunts socks.
it's in the cats nature so i'd just be happy the cat isn't hunting mice or birds and bringing them in.
if its really bugging you you can put repellent on the stuffed animals.
Some cats just do this. It is comical. Unless you plan on putting everything away, Eddie will continue. He's not hurting anything, it's just a little personality trait, so enjoy his antics.
I have four cats and one of them does this all the time--except with dog toys. She hunts them and then attacks them. Honestly, it doesn't bother me. It is her natural instinct and since she is a house cat, a stuffed bone is about the closest she is going to get to a wild rabbit. Perhaps provide more toys for your cat, like balls she can chase (the way she would chase a mouse, more running instead of stalking) and cat nip to entertain her. Alpine Scratchers are also fun for cats--it is an inclined cardboard (cheap!) scratcher that you sprinkle cat nip on--this can entertain your cat (quietly) for a long time. As long as your cat is happy and having fun, which it sounds like he is, you should be happy :)
Cats never lose their instinct to hunt even if they never get to experience it for real. I had a female cat that used to carry a soft toy around the house as her prey. I think it's just a way for them to practice their hunting skills and help them judge the size and weight of prey that they could tackle.
You have answered your own question. it is prey and he is parading it around. When my cat started doing this (with a shoelace) I thought he was in serious pain and came running down the stairs only to see this.
He walks around with it in his mouth like he has to poop! Yes, annoying but I let it go and he stops after a bit.
my cat does this all the time, but hunts socks.
it's in the cats nature so i'd just be happy the cat isn't hunting mice or birds and bringing them in.
if its really bugging you you can put repellent on the stuffed animals.
Some cats just do this. It is comical. Unless you plan on putting everything away, Eddie will continue. He's not hurting anything, it's just a little personality trait, so enjoy his antics.
Mother cat won
We have three 9 week old kittens and their mother won't stop feeding them. They are eating normal kitty food as well and are healthy. The problem is we need to spay her before she has another litter and the vet won't do that until she stops lactating. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to stop her from feeding them? We won't be able to seperate them so we need to find another solution.
Call your vet. A vet can prescribe meds that will dry up her milk.
good luck!
I've always let mom decide - have had a few queens that nursed kittens up to 12 weeks old with no problems. As long as mom is kept inside and not around unneutered males, she is fine to nurse.
As far as when to give them away - the IDEAL time is 10-12 wks - kittens are still nursing up to 8 weeks or longer. I don't care what the vet and SPCA says - they don't really see the emotional behavior problems of taking kittens away from mom/siblings before 10 weeks old.
That's probably WHY mom is still nursing the rest - because you took her kittens from her too soon.
Something bitter on her nipples. Pet stores sell anti lick cream. you would have to help her clean belly tho. I had mom cat she had 5 kittens and nursed them till 12 weeks i finally had to cage her cause at that point she was getting very annoyed but hardly would make kittens stop and it was hurting her(the kittens were using her as a teether/food source...poor mom).
On another note I have seen breeders use either a baby onsie or a specially made "outfit" to prevent kittens from nursing(usually when they would get sick if they nursed as the blood type is wrong or if mom came from a section).
You need to keep her away from other cats so she doesn't get pregnant again. Her body is still in pregnancy mode and is very fertile. She still feeds her babies because that's what a mothers instinct does. She is babying her offspring because she still feels that they can benefit from her nutrients in the milk & the babies love it,. It will stop soon so I wouldn't worry about it too much. I suggest you pay attention to the momma and make sure she isn't wondering outside near any strays that can get her pregnant again, until she is ready to get fixed.
either get bitter apple or pickling salt on her nipples or even a lite amount of hot pepper if you are not able to seperate them
what does your vet suggest that you do?
????you already gave away 4 kittens?????? it's a little early, they need to be with the mom till they are 12 weeks old
Let her feel them, I don't see the problem. She'll stop eventually.
You should really let them feed for a while longer. theres nothing wrong with it as long as you aren't letting her out.
And 6 weeks is waaaaaaaay too younge for a kitten to be given away. They're not completely eating kitten food yet, they don't completely know how to use the litter box yet, and they've missed out on critical learning experiences that they can only get from mama. The SPCA says they can seperated, because they deal with strays who must be seperated and abandoned kittens. Yes a kitten can survive without their mother at that age, but that doesn't mean they'll thrive. If you didn't absolutely need to give the kittens, you shouldn't have.
Once they hit 12 weeks, if they are still feeding (they probably won't be, if they are only occasionally) (12 weeks is basically when critical education comes to a close and they can leave mama) All you have to do is seperate them. If mama isn't pushing them away when they try to feed, then you do it. Every time you see them trying to feed, put mama, or kittens in a seperate room. Feed the kittens, and then let them re-unite after the kittens are full and won't want to feed. Mama's nipples will become engorged at first, but thats normal, don't worry about it. After a few days of the kittens no longer feeding, the milk will dry up, and you can take her to the vet.
It's a shame that she had to have one litter, but good job making sure this will never happen again.
I'm glad your keeping some of the kittens. I hope that they are a joy.
Good luck
Give the kittens away!
Call your vet. A vet can prescribe meds that will dry up her milk.
good luck!
I've always let mom decide - have had a few queens that nursed kittens up to 12 weeks old with no problems. As long as mom is kept inside and not around unneutered males, she is fine to nurse.
As far as when to give them away - the IDEAL time is 10-12 wks - kittens are still nursing up to 8 weeks or longer. I don't care what the vet and SPCA says - they don't really see the emotional behavior problems of taking kittens away from mom/siblings before 10 weeks old.
That's probably WHY mom is still nursing the rest - because you took her kittens from her too soon.
Something bitter on her nipples. Pet stores sell anti lick cream. you would have to help her clean belly tho. I had mom cat she had 5 kittens and nursed them till 12 weeks i finally had to cage her cause at that point she was getting very annoyed but hardly would make kittens stop and it was hurting her(the kittens were using her as a teether/food source...poor mom).
On another note I have seen breeders use either a baby onsie or a specially made "outfit" to prevent kittens from nursing(usually when they would get sick if they nursed as the blood type is wrong or if mom came from a section).
You need to keep her away from other cats so she doesn't get pregnant again. Her body is still in pregnancy mode and is very fertile. She still feeds her babies because that's what a mothers instinct does. She is babying her offspring because she still feels that they can benefit from her nutrients in the milk & the babies love it,. It will stop soon so I wouldn't worry about it too much. I suggest you pay attention to the momma and make sure she isn't wondering outside near any strays that can get her pregnant again, until she is ready to get fixed.
either get bitter apple or pickling salt on her nipples or even a lite amount of hot pepper if you are not able to seperate them
what does your vet suggest that you do?
????you already gave away 4 kittens?????? it's a little early, they need to be with the mom till they are 12 weeks old
Let her feel them, I don't see the problem. She'll stop eventually.
You should really let them feed for a while longer. theres nothing wrong with it as long as you aren't letting her out.
And 6 weeks is waaaaaaaay too younge for a kitten to be given away. They're not completely eating kitten food yet, they don't completely know how to use the litter box yet, and they've missed out on critical learning experiences that they can only get from mama. The SPCA says they can seperated, because they deal with strays who must be seperated and abandoned kittens. Yes a kitten can survive without their mother at that age, but that doesn't mean they'll thrive. If you didn't absolutely need to give the kittens, you shouldn't have.
Once they hit 12 weeks, if they are still feeding (they probably won't be, if they are only occasionally) (12 weeks is basically when critical education comes to a close and they can leave mama) All you have to do is seperate them. If mama isn't pushing them away when they try to feed, then you do it. Every time you see them trying to feed, put mama, or kittens in a seperate room. Feed the kittens, and then let them re-unite after the kittens are full and won't want to feed. Mama's nipples will become engorged at first, but thats normal, don't worry about it. After a few days of the kittens no longer feeding, the milk will dry up, and you can take her to the vet.
It's a shame that she had to have one litter, but good job making sure this will never happen again.
I'm glad your keeping some of the kittens. I hope that they are a joy.
Good luck
Give the kittens away!
Will my kitten always upset my Boxer?
We adopted a kitten a week ago. My 3 year old boxer doesn%26#039;t like him too much. Today he went into the kittens room (my daughter%26#039;s room) and lifted his leg on the cat box, in the middle of the floor and by the door entrance. After 40 minutes of cleaning up his mess he did it again! I turned my back for a second (I know, I should have shut the door) and he went in and lifted his leg on the cat toy.
How do I punish him if I don%26#039;t catch him in the act. Will this pass or is this what I have to look forward to? BTW, he is not fixed.
Thanks!
First off get him neutered...but i don%26#039;t think it will be a permanent problem,they are like kids and his routine is most likely upset and he is feeling it...Just give him extra love and affection and slowly he and the kitten will adjust to each other,as long he isn%26#039;t aggressive towards the kitty i wouldn%26#039;t worry too much...i have 4 cats and a huge black lab...in my case the cats had to adjust to the dog moving in and my one cat peed in the dogs bed...lol...but they are fine now.Good luck.
Male dogs will mark with urine to mark their territory. So he smells the kitten%26#039;s urine and he marks over the top. It really has nothing to do with the kitten, it%26#039;s more about marking territory.
My advice is to find a permanent home for the cat box where he can%26#039;t get near it to mark it. Some dogs will eat cat feces too, so it%26#039;s another reason to find another location he can%26#039;t get to. Maybe putting up a baby gate or placing the box in a high place the cat can reach but he can%26#039;t will do the trick.
Neutering definitely can reduce the desire for territorial marking but may not 100% eliminate it.
First, you should not have brought a new animal into the home without considering how your dog would react to it. Boxers will either get along with and like cats, or they will not. There will be no in-between, ever.
Every naughty behavior that your dog is exhibiting is YOUR FAULT.
He is marking his territory. The kitten is not welcome. It is HIS house, and it%26#039;s not your dog%26#039;s fault. Punishing him after the fact is WRONG and CRUEL,
I have a boxer, and he thinks cats are great chew toys.
Get him neutered, and find another home for the cat.
Getting him fixed may help with the peeing problem, then again it may not. You should always introduce the new animal before buying or bringing it home just for this reason, if it doesnt work out what happens to the less desired animal?
leave him outside for a while.
It just takes time for them to figure out if they like each other or not. I would say several months at least.
As for the dog marking his territory, that is what he%26#039;s doing. You can get him fixed, it might help out...It might not. I would consult a vet if you wanted to.
Squirt him with water and say %26quot;NO!%26quot;. Remove him and shut the door. If you see him by the cat%26#039;s things and he doesn%26#039;t pee on it give him a reward and praise him. Do that every time he is being good. He will figure out if he doesn%26#039;t pee on stuff he gets a reward.
It will all just take time, hang in there.
%0D%0A
How do I punish him if I don%26#039;t catch him in the act. Will this pass or is this what I have to look forward to? BTW, he is not fixed.
Thanks!
First off get him neutered...but i don%26#039;t think it will be a permanent problem,they are like kids and his routine is most likely upset and he is feeling it...Just give him extra love and affection and slowly he and the kitten will adjust to each other,as long he isn%26#039;t aggressive towards the kitty i wouldn%26#039;t worry too much...i have 4 cats and a huge black lab...in my case the cats had to adjust to the dog moving in and my one cat peed in the dogs bed...lol...but they are fine now.Good luck.
Male dogs will mark with urine to mark their territory. So he smells the kitten%26#039;s urine and he marks over the top. It really has nothing to do with the kitten, it%26#039;s more about marking territory.
My advice is to find a permanent home for the cat box where he can%26#039;t get near it to mark it. Some dogs will eat cat feces too, so it%26#039;s another reason to find another location he can%26#039;t get to. Maybe putting up a baby gate or placing the box in a high place the cat can reach but he can%26#039;t will do the trick.
Neutering definitely can reduce the desire for territorial marking but may not 100% eliminate it.
First, you should not have brought a new animal into the home without considering how your dog would react to it. Boxers will either get along with and like cats, or they will not. There will be no in-between, ever.
Every naughty behavior that your dog is exhibiting is YOUR FAULT.
He is marking his territory. The kitten is not welcome. It is HIS house, and it%26#039;s not your dog%26#039;s fault. Punishing him after the fact is WRONG and CRUEL,
I have a boxer, and he thinks cats are great chew toys.
Get him neutered, and find another home for the cat.
Getting him fixed may help with the peeing problem, then again it may not. You should always introduce the new animal before buying or bringing it home just for this reason, if it doesnt work out what happens to the less desired animal?
leave him outside for a while.
It just takes time for them to figure out if they like each other or not. I would say several months at least.
As for the dog marking his territory, that is what he%26#039;s doing. You can get him fixed, it might help out...It might not. I would consult a vet if you wanted to.
Squirt him with water and say %26quot;NO!%26quot;. Remove him and shut the door. If you see him by the cat%26#039;s things and he doesn%26#039;t pee on it give him a reward and praise him. Do that every time he is being good. He will figure out if he doesn%26#039;t pee on stuff he gets a reward.
It will all just take time, hang in there.
%0D%0A
Friday, March 27, 2009
My older dog bites my new puppy?
My seven month old min pin was recently just introduced to my two and a half month old shih tzu. They're both male.
My min pin acts very aggressively towards the shih tzu, he takes him by the neck and drags him, he bites him, he pounces at him (all of which could be play-fighting, I'm not sure) but it all looks very aggressive. The shih tzu never squeals or anything, if anything- when he gets extremely pissed off.. he chases after the min pin and barks at him.
I'm not sure if I should stop this behavior from my min pin. He looks as though he's overdoing it and it looks as though it could hurt the shih tzu.
I think they're both fighting for dominance. The little shih tzu often times attempts to hop on the min pins back and "hump" him.
...
What do I do?
As long as they are not physically hurting one another or drawing blood I would say just watch them and let them work it out. If you try to interfere it will just make it worse. So often dogs that start out like this end up after a short while being best friends.
dont return the dog, just limit that kind of play. you have to train in order to get good dispositions, spend time training
nothing to worry about. It's just dog life. he wont get hurt.. Whatever you do DONT RETURN THE DOGS. ... NOT EVEN ONE OF THEM I WORK AT AN ANIMAL SHELTER AND ITS SO SAD WHEN ANIMALS GET RETURNED.
you're right to think that they are fighting over who wil be the dominant dog and over time this will stop.
this is normall
do nothing
if u give them the same amount of atention this should stop
My min pin acts very aggressively towards the shih tzu, he takes him by the neck and drags him, he bites him, he pounces at him (all of which could be play-fighting, I'm not sure) but it all looks very aggressive. The shih tzu never squeals or anything, if anything- when he gets extremely pissed off.. he chases after the min pin and barks at him.
I'm not sure if I should stop this behavior from my min pin. He looks as though he's overdoing it and it looks as though it could hurt the shih tzu.
I think they're both fighting for dominance. The little shih tzu often times attempts to hop on the min pins back and "hump" him.
...
What do I do?
As long as they are not physically hurting one another or drawing blood I would say just watch them and let them work it out. If you try to interfere it will just make it worse. So often dogs that start out like this end up after a short while being best friends.
dont return the dog, just limit that kind of play. you have to train in order to get good dispositions, spend time training
nothing to worry about. It's just dog life. he wont get hurt.. Whatever you do DONT RETURN THE DOGS. ... NOT EVEN ONE OF THEM I WORK AT AN ANIMAL SHELTER AND ITS SO SAD WHEN ANIMALS GET RETURNED.
you're right to think that they are fighting over who wil be the dominant dog and over time this will stop.
this is normall
do nothing
if u give them the same amount of atention this should stop
HELP my dog farted and?
it launched her across the room and now shes drinking alot of water. Is she okay?
Uhhmmm... are you sure she farted it sounds like a rocket was shoved up her ***.
she probbly drank something really bubley i think shes perfectly fine lol that must've been fun to watch
that is called intestinal malfunction
omg I cannot stop laughing!!!!! HELP!!!
Uhhmmm... are you sure she farted it sounds like a rocket was shoved up her ***.
she probbly drank something really bubley i think shes perfectly fine lol that must've been fun to watch
that is called intestinal malfunction
omg I cannot stop laughing!!!!! HELP!!!
If i wan2 take rocks from my garden and put them in my fishtank how must i prepare them?
boil them in hot water. i wouldnt recommend using the bleach though. just a small amount missed when you rinse them off can cause serious damage to your lil fishies!
Boil them in water for several minutes in order for the bacteria to get killed off. After that, cool them off in tank water for a few minutes before putting them into your tank.
First do a tribual ritual thanking the earth god Terbuis. Then sacrifice your fish to please the god and then you can put in the rocks without harming your pets.
Rinse them and soak them in plain water, changing it a few times. You want to make sure there are no fertilisers or pesticides on them before you put them in an aquarium. Do NOT use any cleaning agents.
Wash them, and then let them sit and become room temperature before putting them in the water.
i would recomend you boil em
but...i've never personally went that far, wash em and it should be fine
Wash them thoroughly.
?
I'd boil them...
I'd clean them, and boil them
wash em
just wash them
Boil them in water for several minutes in order for the bacteria to get killed off. After that, cool them off in tank water for a few minutes before putting them into your tank.
First do a tribual ritual thanking the earth god Terbuis. Then sacrifice your fish to please the god and then you can put in the rocks without harming your pets.
Rinse them and soak them in plain water, changing it a few times. You want to make sure there are no fertilisers or pesticides on them before you put them in an aquarium. Do NOT use any cleaning agents.
Wash them, and then let them sit and become room temperature before putting them in the water.
i would recomend you boil em
but...i've never personally went that far, wash em and it should be fine
Wash them thoroughly.
?
I'd boil them...
I'd clean them, and boil them
wash em
just wash them
Do dogs get boogers....?
my random question 4 the day(:
i see my dog blowing out her nose sometimes so i wonder if they get boogers
Yep, I see them in my dog's nose sometimes. I think they don't occur as often in dogs because of how wet their noses are... but, yeah. Lol, funny question. -Lola P.
dogs do get boogers, because they sneeze quite a bit, due to facial expressions, especially when they are pleased to meet you, and so they get a kind of mucus in the nostril, and this turns to boogers.
i've noticed sometimes my dogs nose run but they haven't ever had a booger par-say.
Oh! i have always wondered that and I have found my answer! Thank you for asking!
I would imagine so.
Yep. And snot, too.
Quit wasting your points. Why not read and learn
yupp
i see my dog blowing out her nose sometimes so i wonder if they get boogers
Yep, I see them in my dog's nose sometimes. I think they don't occur as often in dogs because of how wet their noses are... but, yeah. Lol, funny question. -Lola P.
dogs do get boogers, because they sneeze quite a bit, due to facial expressions, especially when they are pleased to meet you, and so they get a kind of mucus in the nostril, and this turns to boogers.
i've noticed sometimes my dogs nose run but they haven't ever had a booger par-say.
Oh! i have always wondered that and I have found my answer! Thank you for asking!
I would imagine so.
Yep. And snot, too.
Quit wasting your points. Why not read and learn
yupp
Which dog is more athletic, a pit bull or a german shepherd?
Look, my pit bulls were trained with german shepherds. Pit bulls did better. They have more indurance and are stubborn, they will keep going. The pit bull is one of those animals that you would want to take on a long walk/run/jog/bike ride. The pit bulls are great in German Shutzon training. German Shepherds are originally for it, and my dogs passed up the trainer's shepherds. They are both very athletic, and basically the same athletic wise.
In my experience, it would be shepherds. Also the classic training is called Schutzhund, not Shutzon. An example of the athleticism that is required is the dog must run for 20 min while tracking a scent along side of its lead, and if they stop they are penalized. Also they are built for speed and for strength, their bodies are most like a wolf, making them naturally athletic. They are also categorized as working dogs and were developed to herd. Although pitts are strong dogs, their endurance and athleticism is not as natural as the GSD.
german shepherds. they were bred to be athletic. they do everything: police work, seeing-eye work, herding, and even hunting. pit bulls were really just bred for protection and fighting- you can tell by the pit bulls broad chest that in the past century they have only been bred to stand their ground against an attacker and hold an opposing dog down with their weight and strong jaws. but those are not athletic traits.
GS were breed for herding, which is why they have long lean bodies and legs. With that being said, a GS is definately going to be more athletic than a Pit. Depending on the breed of Pits, most of them are shorter and stockier built, with a broad blocked head and shoulders that narrow down to a slender backside.
It depends on what you mean by athletic. GSD's are more agile and in general have a longer endurance. Pit bulls are very muscular and can pull really heavy loads. It's kind of like comparing a boxer to a runner, both are athletic, just in a different sense.
Pit Bulls are police dogs TOO, by the way.
Both of them are probably equally as athletic-- they are both are in the working class (working to do jobs for humans-- herding, farmwork, etc.).
"Depending on the breed of Pit..." LOLOL.
Personally I think GS are more athletic because they are bred to be work dogs that work for the police etc. as pit bulls were bred to fight and fighting does not necessarily mean that they are athletic.
pit bulls are way more athletic they got power,speed, agility a german shepherd really only has power. pitbulls do alot of weight pulling i dont know about GS tho
Im going to go with the American Pit Bull Terrier(not the American Bully or whatever the little fat one is)
definantly a german shephard.
they are used to help police.
pit bulls arent very athletic at all.
:D
german shepard they are usually police dogs so they have to be fit and athletic
A pit bull is more active than a german shepard.
German Shepherds are by far!
German Shepherds!
German Shepherd! :]
german shepard
Both because they both tend to have a lot of energy in them
and pitbals are more faster then german shepards
In my experience, it would be shepherds. Also the classic training is called Schutzhund, not Shutzon. An example of the athleticism that is required is the dog must run for 20 min while tracking a scent along side of its lead, and if they stop they are penalized. Also they are built for speed and for strength, their bodies are most like a wolf, making them naturally athletic. They are also categorized as working dogs and were developed to herd. Although pitts are strong dogs, their endurance and athleticism is not as natural as the GSD.
german shepherds. they were bred to be athletic. they do everything: police work, seeing-eye work, herding, and even hunting. pit bulls were really just bred for protection and fighting- you can tell by the pit bulls broad chest that in the past century they have only been bred to stand their ground against an attacker and hold an opposing dog down with their weight and strong jaws. but those are not athletic traits.
GS were breed for herding, which is why they have long lean bodies and legs. With that being said, a GS is definately going to be more athletic than a Pit. Depending on the breed of Pits, most of them are shorter and stockier built, with a broad blocked head and shoulders that narrow down to a slender backside.
It depends on what you mean by athletic. GSD's are more agile and in general have a longer endurance. Pit bulls are very muscular and can pull really heavy loads. It's kind of like comparing a boxer to a runner, both are athletic, just in a different sense.
Pit Bulls are police dogs TOO, by the way.
Both of them are probably equally as athletic-- they are both are in the working class (working to do jobs for humans-- herding, farmwork, etc.).
"Depending on the breed of Pit..." LOLOL.
Personally I think GS are more athletic because they are bred to be work dogs that work for the police etc. as pit bulls were bred to fight and fighting does not necessarily mean that they are athletic.
pit bulls are way more athletic they got power,speed, agility a german shepherd really only has power. pitbulls do alot of weight pulling i dont know about GS tho
Im going to go with the American Pit Bull Terrier(not the American Bully or whatever the little fat one is)
definantly a german shephard.
they are used to help police.
pit bulls arent very athletic at all.
:D
german shepard they are usually police dogs so they have to be fit and athletic
A pit bull is more active than a german shepard.
German Shepherds are by far!
German Shepherds!
German Shepherd! :]
german shepard
Both because they both tend to have a lot of energy in them
and pitbals are more faster then german shepards
Foam and pebbles in a green plastic filter thing for my fish tank..?
What is it? I can't seem to figure out what it's for or how I use it. It's got a spongy foam thing at the bottom and little rocks at the top. It's got green plastic around it with slits in it so the water can get it. But I don't know what it is. If anyone knows, please help! :)
rj it's the filter connect the plastic pipe to it and watch the magic bubble appear (you got it in you r question filter)
It sounds like it is your biological filter, the place where the good bacteria can grow. The good bacteria will help filter out harmful toxins in your tank, and the sponge/rocks provide a lot of surface area for the bacteria to grow. The sponge part may be mechanical filtration (meaning it removes particles from the water) and the rocks are where the bacteria grow. That's my best guess from the description. Hope I helped.
There may be a place at the top where you can attach and air tube to it and at the other end of the tube an air pump. This will create water movement through the filter.
rj it's the filter connect the plastic pipe to it and watch the magic bubble appear (you got it in you r question filter)
It sounds like it is your biological filter, the place where the good bacteria can grow. The good bacteria will help filter out harmful toxins in your tank, and the sponge/rocks provide a lot of surface area for the bacteria to grow. The sponge part may be mechanical filtration (meaning it removes particles from the water) and the rocks are where the bacteria grow. That's my best guess from the description. Hope I helped.
There may be a place at the top where you can attach and air tube to it and at the other end of the tube an air pump. This will create water movement through the filter.
How can you tell if your hamster is preganant?
Ok i just got a hamster and she might be pregnant, her belly is kinda plump and some of her nipples are showing, she also had already been a mom at petco so yeah... she is plump and her tummy is prett solid, how can you tell if she is pregnant, and she is about 2 to 3 months and a teddy bear hammy!!
She definetely could be pregnant at that age, and it sure sounds like she is. Congradulations!
Now, there are a lot of things you need to do for her.
Move her cage to the quietest place in the house.
Give her nesting materials (shoe box or something like it, extra litter, some toilet paper, etc.).
Give her fruits and veggies for nutrition along with her seed food.
And there are a lot of things you need to know about this.
You cannot touch her nest, especially when the babies arrive (I mean it!! DONT touch it.)
Don't touch the babies until their eyes are open, they have fur, and they start roaming around the cage.
Don't make any loud noises around her.
I know it'll be hard because you just got her, but don't pick her up too much, and not at all once she has the babies, for at least a week or two. (She'll be more agressive anyway, and will probably bite).
Research when you need to separate males and females (so they don't mate).
Find out where you can take the babies when they are old enough to give away.
So it sounds like you're in for a real treat. But you really need to research more about hamster babies online or using books. I only mentioned the basics. Oh, and why did I give you that long list of things not to do...because hamster mothers are very sensitive and will eat their young if you do those things...I know sounds gross, but its in a hamster's nature.
Good luck and hae fun with those cute little pups!!
p.s. a hamsters full pregnancy period is about 4 weeks, but it sounds like you're already pretty far in, so be expecting them!
Signs that a pregnant is prego is...
Getting furious and protective lately.
Staying on a hidden,secure place
Constantly making nests
Not exercising lately and only sleeping
Feeling a bit fat and something round in her stomach.
Your hamster seems to be showing signs that is it pregnant. Or maybe it might just be fat lol.
But if she does have the babies,then you shouldn't be bothering or touching her at any time. She needs time to be with her babies. Give her milky foods to make her milk healthy. Feed her good and serve fresh water each day.
By the way
CONGRADULATION if she has the babies!!!
She definetely could be pregnant at that age, and it sure sounds like she is. Congradulations!
Now, there are a lot of things you need to do for her.
Move her cage to the quietest place in the house.
Give her nesting materials (shoe box or something like it, extra litter, some toilet paper, etc.).
Give her fruits and veggies for nutrition along with her seed food.
And there are a lot of things you need to know about this.
You cannot touch her nest, especially when the babies arrive (I mean it!! DONT touch it.)
Don't touch the babies until their eyes are open, they have fur, and they start roaming around the cage.
Don't make any loud noises around her.
I know it'll be hard because you just got her, but don't pick her up too much, and not at all once she has the babies, for at least a week or two. (She'll be more agressive anyway, and will probably bite).
Research when you need to separate males and females (so they don't mate).
Find out where you can take the babies when they are old enough to give away.
So it sounds like you're in for a real treat. But you really need to research more about hamster babies online or using books. I only mentioned the basics. Oh, and why did I give you that long list of things not to do...because hamster mothers are very sensitive and will eat their young if you do those things...I know sounds gross, but its in a hamster's nature.
Good luck and hae fun with those cute little pups!!
p.s. a hamsters full pregnancy period is about 4 weeks, but it sounds like you're already pretty far in, so be expecting them!
Signs that a pregnant is prego is...
Getting furious and protective lately.
Staying on a hidden,secure place
Constantly making nests
Not exercising lately and only sleeping
Feeling a bit fat and something round in her stomach.
Your hamster seems to be showing signs that is it pregnant. Or maybe it might just be fat lol.
But if she does have the babies,then you shouldn't be bothering or touching her at any time. She needs time to be with her babies. Give her milky foods to make her milk healthy. Feed her good and serve fresh water each day.
By the way
CONGRADULATION if she has the babies!!!
New female guinea pig Help!?
I just brought a 6 week old teddy bear guinea pig and will be bringing her home in a week... i alredy have a 6month old abbisyan guinea pig and i want tro know how long i should wait to intergrate them and also what do i need t do to care for a baby guinea pig?? she also need a name lol im super excited cuz ima guine pig lover so i wana give her the best home possible Help!
Generally wait around a week or 2 before you introduce them.. just to make sure the new one has nothing bad it could give to the older one.
If you already have a guinea pig you should know how to care for them... babies are the same as adults really. 1 cup of veg per pig a day... unlimited hay.. pellets and water.
Make sure they have a lot of room or they'll fight... clean the whole cage out well and move things around so the older one isn't territorial, consider a C&C cage if you don't have one already they're great :)
I like the name Ruby and Bella for a girl.
Edit: and too the person above, 13 years olds and younger can own any animal they want, aslong as they love it and care for it it isn't your choice, nothing suggests this person is younger than 13 and they do NOT need to be kept appart for months at all.
All you have to do is treat her like your six month old one because as soon as a guinea pig is ready to leave its mother, it is ok to take care of it as of a fully grown adult guinea pig. I hope this information helped. I used to have 3 guinea pigs and I named the mother Pumpkin and the two babies it had Chocolate and Vanilla.
Okay so, you have to separate them for about a few months, maybe 3-5, then remove it and see how they react, if all is good, let them be together for a long time. I really want two guinea pigs, your very luck, but i guess i am too, because i researched them for a very long time, and am convincing my mother! Im so happy for you! When i get my 2 piggies (both girls) i want to name one Josie, maybe you should too! Its a nice name!! P>S> Please spell better in your posts, if you are under 13 years of age, you should not be owning guinea pigs!
Generally wait around a week or 2 before you introduce them.. just to make sure the new one has nothing bad it could give to the older one.
If you already have a guinea pig you should know how to care for them... babies are the same as adults really. 1 cup of veg per pig a day... unlimited hay.. pellets and water.
Make sure they have a lot of room or they'll fight... clean the whole cage out well and move things around so the older one isn't territorial, consider a C&C cage if you don't have one already they're great :)
I like the name Ruby and Bella for a girl.
Edit: and too the person above, 13 years olds and younger can own any animal they want, aslong as they love it and care for it it isn't your choice, nothing suggests this person is younger than 13 and they do NOT need to be kept appart for months at all.
All you have to do is treat her like your six month old one because as soon as a guinea pig is ready to leave its mother, it is ok to take care of it as of a fully grown adult guinea pig. I hope this information helped. I used to have 3 guinea pigs and I named the mother Pumpkin and the two babies it had Chocolate and Vanilla.
Okay so, you have to separate them for about a few months, maybe 3-5, then remove it and see how they react, if all is good, let them be together for a long time. I really want two guinea pigs, your very luck, but i guess i am too, because i researched them for a very long time, and am convincing my mother! Im so happy for you! When i get my 2 piggies (both girls) i want to name one Josie, maybe you should too! Its a nice name!! P>S> Please spell better in your posts, if you are under 13 years of age, you should not be owning guinea pigs!
How do I get my shy puppy to go on walks?
I just got a beautiful 3 month year old husky german shepherd mix. She is very sweet, she isn't aggressive but is EXTREMELY shy. They warned us when we got her. She was a stray her whole life. She will let you hold her in your lap but if you take her on a walk she just sits down. Ocassionally she would pull towards the street but we litterally couldn't get anywhere.
I would try to find something she really likes and get her to go to that. You could use food (hot dogs are good), dog treats, or even a toy. Once she realizes that everything is going to be ok (may take a week or two) she should be able to go for walks without having to use a "stimulant".
For a while your walks may only consist of her going 500 ft down the sidewalk, but she will learn
You could also take her to obedience classes, they may help her get socialized better.
You can try walking her in your yard or another quiet area, giving her a tiny treat and some praise for each few steps that she takes. Hold the treat out ahead of her and encourage her to walk to get it.
Slowly work up to areas with more noise and distractions as she gains confidence.
Hard to say what is causing her shyness and fear, though (aside from her previous lack of socialization) ... might be a good idea to consult with a dog trainer or behavioral specialist if you aren't making any progress, because if the underlying problem is fear, anxiety, and/or lack of confidence, the walking issue is just a symptom and the cause of it will need to be addressed.
I would try to find something she really likes and get her to go to that. You could use food (hot dogs are good), dog treats, or even a toy. Once she realizes that everything is going to be ok (may take a week or two) she should be able to go for walks without having to use a "stimulant".
For a while your walks may only consist of her going 500 ft down the sidewalk, but she will learn
You could also take her to obedience classes, they may help her get socialized better.
You can try walking her in your yard or another quiet area, giving her a tiny treat and some praise for each few steps that she takes. Hold the treat out ahead of her and encourage her to walk to get it.
Slowly work up to areas with more noise and distractions as she gains confidence.
Hard to say what is causing her shyness and fear, though (aside from her previous lack of socialization) ... might be a good idea to consult with a dog trainer or behavioral specialist if you aren't making any progress, because if the underlying problem is fear, anxiety, and/or lack of confidence, the walking issue is just a symptom and the cause of it will need to be addressed.
Have adopted a 5 1/2 mo. old min pin-tail not docked-do I need to have this done?
Anyone have an older min pin that hasn't had this done?
no, you don't and i wouldn't .... breeders usually do this soon after they are born and if you have it done now it will be really painful for him! don't do it! i have seen tons of rotties with tails, they look a little diff... but they are still cute!
At 5 1/2 months old it is an amputation that requires general anesthesia and a much longer recovery time than a dock. A dock can only be done until 5 days old and that is generally only on puppies to weak to undergo the procedure at a more appropriate 2-3 days old. There is no need to have the tail amputated nor would any responsible vet do a cosmetic amputation. The only reason to have the dogs tail amputated at this point would be a non-healing tail injury or a broken tail.
It's too late to dock. If you got it done now, it would be considered an amputation, would need to be done under anesthesia, and isn't the smartest thing to do. Next time, get your dog from a responsible breeder that docks at the right time - around 3 days of age.
Actually I think anyone who has a dog's ears clipped or tail docked is seriously disturbed. That is done only for the human's ego, because they like the way it makes the dog look. Horrible to put a dog through pain just for selfishness. The dog does not know or care how it looks.
It can only be done shortly after birth. As for it needing to be done, I've had 5 dogs. Two came with their tails already docked, and the other three were intact. We have never had a problem with tails or dewclaws. I think docking and removing dewclaws is total BS.
No need to..it's just for looks so that it will look more like its breed. If he hasn't had this done, and is already 5 1/2 months old, it will hurt way to much to have it done now, so don't worry about it
You don't need to have it done unless you are planning on showing the dog. If it's just for a pet then I wouldn't worry about spending the money, the dog will be fine.
No you do not and hopefully you won't. Dogs use their tails for balance and communication. It is a cosmetic surgery and unless their is a medical reason, whip tail comes to mind, it is not needed.
Docking tails is typically for looks only - and is done when the puppies are only a few days old.
At this age, do not even consider it. It's not necessary.
There is no such medical reason to have this done. Please do not put your dog through this just for appearance. It is medically unnecessary and especially at this age.
(though personally I think its wrong at any age)
NO! The tails should be docked at 2-4 days old. With a 5 1/2 mo old pup, it is a more serious operation and should not be done. No reason to do it anyway.
Getting the tail docked would be a personal choice. The only reason why I could see you needing to get it done is if you plan on showing your dog.
no you don't. It's purely asthetic.
If you do it now, it'll be extremely painful for the dog.
There's no need to have it done.
And at this age it's amputation, much more serious than docking at 3 days.
NO AND MOST VETS WILL NOT DO THIS SURGERY AT 5 1/2 MONTHS IT HAS TO BE DONE WITHIN SEVERAL HOURS AFTER BIRTH...
no, you don't and i wouldn't .... breeders usually do this soon after they are born and if you have it done now it will be really painful for him! don't do it! i have seen tons of rotties with tails, they look a little diff... but they are still cute!
At 5 1/2 months old it is an amputation that requires general anesthesia and a much longer recovery time than a dock. A dock can only be done until 5 days old and that is generally only on puppies to weak to undergo the procedure at a more appropriate 2-3 days old. There is no need to have the tail amputated nor would any responsible vet do a cosmetic amputation. The only reason to have the dogs tail amputated at this point would be a non-healing tail injury or a broken tail.
It's too late to dock. If you got it done now, it would be considered an amputation, would need to be done under anesthesia, and isn't the smartest thing to do. Next time, get your dog from a responsible breeder that docks at the right time - around 3 days of age.
Actually I think anyone who has a dog's ears clipped or tail docked is seriously disturbed. That is done only for the human's ego, because they like the way it makes the dog look. Horrible to put a dog through pain just for selfishness. The dog does not know or care how it looks.
It can only be done shortly after birth. As for it needing to be done, I've had 5 dogs. Two came with their tails already docked, and the other three were intact. We have never had a problem with tails or dewclaws. I think docking and removing dewclaws is total BS.
No need to..it's just for looks so that it will look more like its breed. If he hasn't had this done, and is already 5 1/2 months old, it will hurt way to much to have it done now, so don't worry about it
You don't need to have it done unless you are planning on showing the dog. If it's just for a pet then I wouldn't worry about spending the money, the dog will be fine.
No you do not and hopefully you won't. Dogs use their tails for balance and communication. It is a cosmetic surgery and unless their is a medical reason, whip tail comes to mind, it is not needed.
Docking tails is typically for looks only - and is done when the puppies are only a few days old.
At this age, do not even consider it. It's not necessary.
There is no such medical reason to have this done. Please do not put your dog through this just for appearance. It is medically unnecessary and especially at this age.
(though personally I think its wrong at any age)
NO! The tails should be docked at 2-4 days old. With a 5 1/2 mo old pup, it is a more serious operation and should not be done. No reason to do it anyway.
Getting the tail docked would be a personal choice. The only reason why I could see you needing to get it done is if you plan on showing your dog.
no you don't. It's purely asthetic.
If you do it now, it'll be extremely painful for the dog.
There's no need to have it done.
And at this age it's amputation, much more serious than docking at 3 days.
NO AND MOST VETS WILL NOT DO THIS SURGERY AT 5 1/2 MONTHS IT HAS TO BE DONE WITHIN SEVERAL HOURS AFTER BIRTH...
Pet Grass from Petco question?
Does anyone get this and well, I did and I watered it- I just did not put it in the fridge until last night...and it looks so yellowish and almost dead- I did not over water it...or under water it....it is now in the fridge- any way to revive it? tips to make the next one last??? My cat really like it.
It's wheat grass. You can also get it at most grocery stores for 2 bucks. It grows quickly, but only lasts about 2 weeks. Be sure it gets sun and stays moist. You can sometimes find the seed to replant it, which is the more economical way to grow it. You did nothing wrong, it just doesn't last long. I wouldn't put it in the fridge, I keep mine in the bathroom, actually, where it gets a bit of sun and I can remember to water it.
It's wheat grass. You can also get it at most grocery stores for 2 bucks. It grows quickly, but only lasts about 2 weeks. Be sure it gets sun and stays moist. You can sometimes find the seed to replant it, which is the more economical way to grow it. You did nothing wrong, it just doesn't last long. I wouldn't put it in the fridge, I keep mine in the bathroom, actually, where it gets a bit of sun and I can remember to water it.
Friday, March 13, 2009
What to look for in a coach?
What are some things to look for when searching for a coach?
When I took lessons, it was just the coachs at the barn. And when I got my own horse(I kept her at a different barn). The barn owners would coach me. Now I have moved her since the barn closed down and there is no coachs where I board at. I found some really good coachs in the area and I have heard nothing but good about them. But what are some things to look for? Like should I see what they do as punishment for a horse and stuff? Or even, what do you look for in a coach? I am really wanting to improve as a rider and my horse has some problems(training wise) that I would like to have a coach help me with as I will know I am going the right way.
The number one thing I look for in a coach is commitment. Here are things to look for to see how committed the coach is:
1) On time. You trainer should be there at least 15 minutes before the lesson.
2) Enthusiasm. The only way you are going to get the most out of your trainer is if he/she is actually interested in teaching you. They should take the time to explain things and welcome questions.
3) Cell phone off. There is nothing more frustrating than to have a trainer who spends half the lesson talking on the phone. By this you can tell very quickly what this trainer is going to be like; if they have this trait, they usually have most all the other traits. I recently switched trainers and I have been learning so much from my new trainer. The only time she answered her phone was when it was her dad calling the day after surgery. And she was even apologetic about that!
4) Preparation. Your trainer should have a plan, at least in their head if not in writing, of what you're going to do during the lesson. If they are lazy enough to wing every lesson, they are probably also too lazy to actually set up exercises and set jumps, ect. therefore you will find your lessons very repetitive.
Another thing to look for is of course knowledge. Your lessons should be full of factual information, constructive criticism, and multiple techniques. If your trainer is only saying things every 5 minutes or is only saying things you have heard of before, they don't know enough to teach your level. A knowledgable instructor will also be much safer if they know what they are doing.
Lastly, you want a positive instructor. An instructor needs to have a balance of patience and drive. If your trainer cuts you too much slack and doesn't push, you'll never raise the bar. But, at the same time a trainer that is too pushy with expectations that are too high will cause you to lose confidence in your riding. So when you go to your first lesson, listen for the words "good job" every so often between firm commands.
Good luck!
make sure you get along with your coach! That is the most important thing! when you are doing something as dangerous as riding, a good relationship with a trainer is necessary. Also, make sure you and your trainer have a lot of the same beliefs as riding is concerned. Good luck!
A good coach will help you if you're confused with something. This is very important. The instructor will also give thorough information when learning something new. The instructor will not only give you tips, but will point out things that need correcting in your riding.
You have to get along with them. Um...they have to be nice. They have to be a good coach like someone willing to help you when you're having problems.
Have them meet your horse, see how they get along with your horse and how horse smart they are. Then mabey take a practice lesson with them.
When I took lessons, it was just the coachs at the barn. And when I got my own horse(I kept her at a different barn). The barn owners would coach me. Now I have moved her since the barn closed down and there is no coachs where I board at. I found some really good coachs in the area and I have heard nothing but good about them. But what are some things to look for? Like should I see what they do as punishment for a horse and stuff? Or even, what do you look for in a coach? I am really wanting to improve as a rider and my horse has some problems(training wise) that I would like to have a coach help me with as I will know I am going the right way.
The number one thing I look for in a coach is commitment. Here are things to look for to see how committed the coach is:
1) On time. You trainer should be there at least 15 minutes before the lesson.
2) Enthusiasm. The only way you are going to get the most out of your trainer is if he/she is actually interested in teaching you. They should take the time to explain things and welcome questions.
3) Cell phone off. There is nothing more frustrating than to have a trainer who spends half the lesson talking on the phone. By this you can tell very quickly what this trainer is going to be like; if they have this trait, they usually have most all the other traits. I recently switched trainers and I have been learning so much from my new trainer. The only time she answered her phone was when it was her dad calling the day after surgery. And she was even apologetic about that!
4) Preparation. Your trainer should have a plan, at least in their head if not in writing, of what you're going to do during the lesson. If they are lazy enough to wing every lesson, they are probably also too lazy to actually set up exercises and set jumps, ect. therefore you will find your lessons very repetitive.
Another thing to look for is of course knowledge. Your lessons should be full of factual information, constructive criticism, and multiple techniques. If your trainer is only saying things every 5 minutes or is only saying things you have heard of before, they don't know enough to teach your level. A knowledgable instructor will also be much safer if they know what they are doing.
Lastly, you want a positive instructor. An instructor needs to have a balance of patience and drive. If your trainer cuts you too much slack and doesn't push, you'll never raise the bar. But, at the same time a trainer that is too pushy with expectations that are too high will cause you to lose confidence in your riding. So when you go to your first lesson, listen for the words "good job" every so often between firm commands.
Good luck!
make sure you get along with your coach! That is the most important thing! when you are doing something as dangerous as riding, a good relationship with a trainer is necessary. Also, make sure you and your trainer have a lot of the same beliefs as riding is concerned. Good luck!
A good coach will help you if you're confused with something. This is very important. The instructor will also give thorough information when learning something new. The instructor will not only give you tips, but will point out things that need correcting in your riding.
You have to get along with them. Um...they have to be nice. They have to be a good coach like someone willing to help you when you're having problems.
Have them meet your horse, see how they get along with your horse and how horse smart they are. Then mabey take a practice lesson with them.
Guinea pigs and air conditioning...?
I'm wondering if air conditioning can affect guinea pigs? I had a guinea pig that's cage was kept in a living room and the A/C was about...20 feet or more away and not directly facing the cage at all. It got sick and died, but it could have also had respiratory problems from when we got it. I'm just worried about my two pigs that I keep in my room since it's getting close to the time when we put the A/Cs in...
If the cage is near a vent where it's directly hit this could cause issues. It could create or worsen respiratory problems. Be sure to give it plenty of vitamin c and use a good quality bedding, preferably carefresh or softsorbent. Stay away from cedar and corn cob at all costs. Just place the cage furthest away from the vents as possible and all should go well
Make sure its not too cold in the room, and A/Cs dry out air loads which can effect respitary problems - try opening the window as often as you can for fresh air rather than havin ac on all the time.
Also are you letting your guinea pigs outside on the grass too sometimes? Cos they cant just be kept inside in a cage the whole time.
guinea pigs are from a very warm climate, and don't do well with chilly atmospheres. could you put them on the front or back porch throughout the day?
As long as its not blowing directly on them within a close proximity and isn't literally freezing cold.... they'll be fine.
it's possible your AC is dusty/blowing dirty air. other than that, i'd think you'd be fine.
If the cage is near a vent where it's directly hit this could cause issues. It could create or worsen respiratory problems. Be sure to give it plenty of vitamin c and use a good quality bedding, preferably carefresh or softsorbent. Stay away from cedar and corn cob at all costs. Just place the cage furthest away from the vents as possible and all should go well
Make sure its not too cold in the room, and A/Cs dry out air loads which can effect respitary problems - try opening the window as often as you can for fresh air rather than havin ac on all the time.
Also are you letting your guinea pigs outside on the grass too sometimes? Cos they cant just be kept inside in a cage the whole time.
guinea pigs are from a very warm climate, and don't do well with chilly atmospheres. could you put them on the front or back porch throughout the day?
As long as its not blowing directly on them within a close proximity and isn't literally freezing cold.... they'll be fine.
it's possible your AC is dusty/blowing dirty air. other than that, i'd think you'd be fine.
If i turned into a horse what type would i be?
im blonde
would i be a blonde horse?
You'd be a mule.
how would people know these things whyb do you want to know this anyway?
no u would be a brown horse
would i be a blonde horse?
You'd be a mule.
how would people know these things whyb do you want to know this anyway?
no u would be a brown horse
Why does my cat perch at my shoulders? Also, why is she so mean to my boyfriend?
I've had my cat, Nala, now for about 8 months, and she is absolutely wonderful. She's grown to become more attached to me and my boyfriend (and we live together).
She is always coming over to me and cuddle up on my chest (funny that she knows this is most comfortable!), and leaves my boyfriend out. When he goes to take her away from me or pick her up, she wines and wines and sometimes gets very mad at him. I tell him if he just let it happen, she wouldn't be so mean (but I don't really know if this is the case).
Also, at night, she will climb up on the back of the couch while I'm sitting or lying down and sit with her face literally a half an inch away from the back of my head. She has done this EVERY night for the past few months and I cannot figure out why.
If anyone has similar situations PLEASE answer my question...she is my first cat and it's so intriguing to find out about a cat's behavior.
She has simply bonded with you! : )
You are *her* human and she doesn't want your boyfriend to interrupt her time with you. She will learn to deal with it.
Be thankful that she has bonded with you.
One way I communicate with my cats to tell them all is okay is to give them a slow blink. Cats understand this as meaning "All is well. Things feel so safe that I am willing to close my eyes!"
If you do this often enough (only when things *are* all safe and snugly) they will start to blink back at you to tell you all is well.
Enjoy learning about cats! They are fascinating!
I have a cat who is very attached to me also.
You're her mommy and she is a one person cat-not unusual!
The best thing for him to do is to try to get her to play with her favorite toy with him. It is a much better way for them to connect. She has chosen who she wants to snuggle with-perhaps he can be the playtime person!
i didnt know that about blinking!!!!!!! thats so cool!!!!!!!!!!!! it might help with my kitty ^_^
Many cats will bond more closely with 1 person, especially rescued cats. I think your cat is very attached to you and likes to be close to you. Mine loves to cuddle up on my chest (she puts her paws up on my shoulders, licks my shirt and purrs like crazy). When she's done, she crawls down into my lap and settles in for a nap.
Meanwhile, my cat generally ignores my husband except for feeding and play time when they are buddies. If I take her off my lap and put her in his, she just jumps down. The only time she gets in his lap is if I'm up doing something (like the dishes) and she knows I won't be back to sit down for awhile. My husband then pretends to ignore her by picking up a magazine or newspaper and hiding his face in it so he makes no eye contact with her. Only then will she jump into his lap and sleep. Once she's settled, she generally stays there even when I come back in the room.
Cats are an endless source of amusement and bafflement. Enjoy your little one!
She is always coming over to me and cuddle up on my chest (funny that she knows this is most comfortable!), and leaves my boyfriend out. When he goes to take her away from me or pick her up, she wines and wines and sometimes gets very mad at him. I tell him if he just let it happen, she wouldn't be so mean (but I don't really know if this is the case).
Also, at night, she will climb up on the back of the couch while I'm sitting or lying down and sit with her face literally a half an inch away from the back of my head. She has done this EVERY night for the past few months and I cannot figure out why.
If anyone has similar situations PLEASE answer my question...she is my first cat and it's so intriguing to find out about a cat's behavior.
She has simply bonded with you! : )
You are *her* human and she doesn't want your boyfriend to interrupt her time with you. She will learn to deal with it.
Be thankful that she has bonded with you.
One way I communicate with my cats to tell them all is okay is to give them a slow blink. Cats understand this as meaning "All is well. Things feel so safe that I am willing to close my eyes!"
If you do this often enough (only when things *are* all safe and snugly) they will start to blink back at you to tell you all is well.
Enjoy learning about cats! They are fascinating!
I have a cat who is very attached to me also.
You're her mommy and she is a one person cat-not unusual!
The best thing for him to do is to try to get her to play with her favorite toy with him. It is a much better way for them to connect. She has chosen who she wants to snuggle with-perhaps he can be the playtime person!
i didnt know that about blinking!!!!!!! thats so cool!!!!!!!!!!!! it might help with my kitty ^_^
Many cats will bond more closely with 1 person, especially rescued cats. I think your cat is very attached to you and likes to be close to you. Mine loves to cuddle up on my chest (she puts her paws up on my shoulders, licks my shirt and purrs like crazy). When she's done, she crawls down into my lap and settles in for a nap.
Meanwhile, my cat generally ignores my husband except for feeding and play time when they are buddies. If I take her off my lap and put her in his, she just jumps down. The only time she gets in his lap is if I'm up doing something (like the dishes) and she knows I won't be back to sit down for awhile. My husband then pretends to ignore her by picking up a magazine or newspaper and hiding his face in it so he makes no eye contact with her. Only then will she jump into his lap and sleep. Once she's settled, she generally stays there even when I come back in the room.
Cats are an endless source of amusement and bafflement. Enjoy your little one!
Every time a kitten walks by her she scratches them and heeesssesesss at them every single time?
Mother cats do this as a way to let the kittens know that this is my territory so move on, get out of here and / or when they are weaning them. Cats are territorial, some more than others. They will defend their territory even against their own kittens. Wait a few days or so if she is weaning them the scratching will pass and you will have one big happy family and if you don't get them fixed, it will keep getting bigger and bigger and bigger. Kittens quickly get mature enough to mate and they will mate with their mother if the opportunity presents itself.
Kitten is scared, and she not be comfort and hold, and pay attention with a brushing...
The kittie walks by who? Perhaps you are confusing play with kittie terrorism.
Walks by who, Your Mother in-law this would be acceptable behavior LOL
Cats are pointless & wack..get a dog (preferably a rottweiler!)
ha
Kitten is scared, and she not be comfort and hold, and pay attention with a brushing...
The kittie walks by who? Perhaps you are confusing play with kittie terrorism.
Walks by who, Your Mother in-law this would be acceptable behavior LOL
Cats are pointless & wack..get a dog (preferably a rottweiler!)
ha
What Does is The Usual Entry Fee Charged at a Horse Show?
I know it varies but what would you say are the usual entry fees for different varieties of shows? And what would you estimate the total cost of going to a show to be?
A local or fun show in my area charges about $2 to $5 per class with a $5 grounds fee. A breed show here will run about $20 per class or maybe have an all day fee of $60, plus a stall fee of $40 or so. Dressage shows can cost $300 easily for a two day show, and combined shows are $15 per division in my area. You can show on a shoestring by hitting only local shows and not getting stalls, or you could go all out and show several divisions and get stalls and tack stalls.
In my area, a fun local show is about $6
for a show with more points (still not rated though) is about $10
For a rated show... Those can vary by alot. it also matters what type of riding you do. The places I show at dressage is more expensive, and hunters and jumpers are th same lower price. Its depends where you are from also. Look up different show grounds (were you plan on showing) and MOST LIKELY you will find the fee there for both classes and ground fee, and medical too. I spend about $200 a show. But its also $10 a class (5 or more classes), gas for trailering, snack stand, grounds fee, medical, registering fee, stall, shavings, and other things.
I currently show at hunter/jumper shows and the entrance fee tends to be pretty costly. It is about a $25 dollar schooling fee as well as $75 for jumping and flat classes. This does not include board at the horse show as well as any show clothes you need. An estimated cost of a horse show for hunter/jumpers (depending on the level) is about $400-$500.
I'm not super smart when it comes to shows, but the ones I've been to, or know how much they are, are: a dressage show(in Oregon) was $25 a class. So each time you go through one of the tests, you pay $25. I think it was all training level, if that changes anything. Another one was just at the barn that I had gone to for years, they did little shows every now and then. The last one I WENT to was $3 a class, but the last one that had was $5, I think, so it just went up a little because of the economy.
Hope I helped a little!
What discipline? What level? You have not given enough info for anyone to give a useful answer.
I ride hunter/jumpers. Local, unrated shows are $20 per class. There are typically 3-4 classes in the division.
When we go to the big shows the fee can be as much as $2000 for the division for the A/O horses and upwards of $4000 for the Grand Prix horses. This does not include stall fees ($350 per stall), hotel, or meals.
Edit: I would love to know why anyone would give a thumbs down to this answer. It is accurate information. I can provide a link to the prize list if anyone would care to see it.
well for a small barrel racing show, its about $10-$15 per class (barrel racing, pole bending, arena race, etc.) but then you have the open classes that everyone enters, then it gets to about $20. but if it is a big show (NBHA, NPBA, etc.) you can only run once and it costs about $20-$30. hope this helps!
NABRA (northern arizona barrel racing association) is $50 to enter like for the wole year and then $8 per run but you have to enter before you can run.. but im almost positive ur talkin' 'bout english so i have no freakin clue :|
EDIT: wtf? its stupid that you gave me a thumbs down! i was just trying to help! gosh if you dont appreciate me trying to help then i wont.. oh and the person above me why did they give he/she a thumbs down either? they told you CORRECT information!! gosh idk about you people!
when i was showing eight years ago it was 7 bucks a class now its 15 a class.
go to mexico they pay girls to take it from horses ; ]
A local or fun show in my area charges about $2 to $5 per class with a $5 grounds fee. A breed show here will run about $20 per class or maybe have an all day fee of $60, plus a stall fee of $40 or so. Dressage shows can cost $300 easily for a two day show, and combined shows are $15 per division in my area. You can show on a shoestring by hitting only local shows and not getting stalls, or you could go all out and show several divisions and get stalls and tack stalls.
In my area, a fun local show is about $6
for a show with more points (still not rated though) is about $10
For a rated show... Those can vary by alot. it also matters what type of riding you do. The places I show at dressage is more expensive, and hunters and jumpers are th same lower price. Its depends where you are from also. Look up different show grounds (were you plan on showing) and MOST LIKELY you will find the fee there for both classes and ground fee, and medical too. I spend about $200 a show. But its also $10 a class (5 or more classes), gas for trailering, snack stand, grounds fee, medical, registering fee, stall, shavings, and other things.
I currently show at hunter/jumper shows and the entrance fee tends to be pretty costly. It is about a $25 dollar schooling fee as well as $75 for jumping and flat classes. This does not include board at the horse show as well as any show clothes you need. An estimated cost of a horse show for hunter/jumpers (depending on the level) is about $400-$500.
I'm not super smart when it comes to shows, but the ones I've been to, or know how much they are, are: a dressage show(in Oregon) was $25 a class. So each time you go through one of the tests, you pay $25. I think it was all training level, if that changes anything. Another one was just at the barn that I had gone to for years, they did little shows every now and then. The last one I WENT to was $3 a class, but the last one that had was $5, I think, so it just went up a little because of the economy.
Hope I helped a little!
What discipline? What level? You have not given enough info for anyone to give a useful answer.
I ride hunter/jumpers. Local, unrated shows are $20 per class. There are typically 3-4 classes in the division.
When we go to the big shows the fee can be as much as $2000 for the division for the A/O horses and upwards of $4000 for the Grand Prix horses. This does not include stall fees ($350 per stall), hotel, or meals.
Edit: I would love to know why anyone would give a thumbs down to this answer. It is accurate information. I can provide a link to the prize list if anyone would care to see it.
well for a small barrel racing show, its about $10-$15 per class (barrel racing, pole bending, arena race, etc.) but then you have the open classes that everyone enters, then it gets to about $20. but if it is a big show (NBHA, NPBA, etc.) you can only run once and it costs about $20-$30. hope this helps!
NABRA (northern arizona barrel racing association) is $50 to enter like for the wole year and then $8 per run but you have to enter before you can run.. but im almost positive ur talkin' 'bout english so i have no freakin clue :|
EDIT: wtf? its stupid that you gave me a thumbs down! i was just trying to help! gosh if you dont appreciate me trying to help then i wont.. oh and the person above me why did they give he/she a thumbs down either? they told you CORRECT information!! gosh idk about you people!
when i was showing eight years ago it was 7 bucks a class now its 15 a class.
go to mexico they pay girls to take it from horses ; ]
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